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I replaced it with a true JL IB sub and added sound dampener and it sounds a ton better. That said, still nothing like a sub in an enclosure if you ask me.
I replaced it with a true JL IB sub and added sound dampener and it sounds a ton better. That said, still nothing like a sub in an enclosure if you ask me.
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I just did the same exact thing in my 230 and wish I didn't. It was a waste of money for me. Not much difference between stock and the JL IB IMO. That's why I'm going ahead with a sub enclosure under the observer's seat now.
I'll do the enclosed sub under the observer seat as well, but I felt the JL IB and sound dampening was a big improvement over stock. Still not enough, but much better. Make sure you vent that clam shell somehow or it will just be a rattle trap.
Reviving this and hoping someone sees it. Looking at putting a 1500 watt Treo 10" in a ported enclosure under the drivers helm. The installer I spoke to said he could pull the bow backrest off that is right in front of the drivers windshield and get a ported 10" in there. He would remove the silver panel under the steering wheel and put a vented piece there that would allow the sound to vent out and still keep all the wiring in place. Doing a 1500 watt arc amp to push it. He said I would not see anything different when in the boat. I like the thought of adding sound directly to the cockpit and not losing any storage at all. I am reluctant to give up my storage under the passenger seat as it's precious as we all know.
Reviving this and hoping someone sees it. Looking at putting a 1500 watt Treo 10" in a ported enclosure under the drivers helm. The installer I spoke to said he could pull the bow backrest off that is right in front of the drivers windshield and get a ported 10" in there. He would remove the silver panel under the steering wheel and put a vented piece there that would allow the sound to vent out and still keep all the wiring in place. Doing a 1500 watt arc amp to push it. He said I would not see anything different when in the boat. I like the thought of adding sound directly to the cockpit and not losing any storage at all. I am reluctant to give up my storage under the passenger seat as it's precious as we all know.
Thoughts? Boat is a 2013 210.
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Have you taken that backrest off yourself and seen how much room is there? It's not that hard to do. I'd be surprised to see if that plan would work without rattling the contents of what's behind there. Especially If you have a heater.
No heater here in Texas. He mentioned he has done a couple and had to add some sound proofing to get the dash rattling down, but assume with that much power and that much platinum there will be some. We had some when we had a ported 10" in the passenger compartment in our last boat.
No heater here in Texas. He mentioned he has done a couple and had to add some sound proofing to get the dash rattling down, but assume with that much power and that much platinum there will be some. We had some when we had a ported 10" in the passenger compartment in our last boat.
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I'm pretty sure I wouldn't want to be chasing down rattles behind an area like that with such limited, PITA access. No heaters in Texas??? So... No one there goes out in the spring or fall? I find it hard to believe the entire state is full of fair weather boaters only although when I was in contact with Buxton about a possible used boat last year, they told me they never order them with heaters. It made me wonder if it was a Texas thing or a Buxton thing. Either way it sounded crazy and that's coming from a Californian!
Heaters are not common down here. You ride, wetsuit, dry suit, heater top, whatever the conditions call far, get out and dry off and be done. We ride through October and start in March so wouldn't consider us or a lot of riders here fair weather riders. If I get approval from the wife I will do the sub under the dash and see what happens. With enough hit, the boat is a rattle trap anyway so might as well not lose the storage.
Yep, that subwoofer approach (a ported woofer box inside another box with a small vent aperture) will be a very tactile and percussive type of bass. Not very musical. But with all the power "hit" is a good description.
David the vent aperture would or could be huge, larger than any bent I've seen done for a passenger storage compartment sub. The ported box would be designed for the sub so no musical value should be lost. Big you know the silver panel under the steering wheel in a 210 it's at lease 1.5 square feet in size. That entire panel would be removed and replaced with a grill type cover.
Everything about that approach is all about the "HIT", not the SQ. There are so many issues to consider. The vent is just one of them.
The size of the woofer is a factor but the acoustic transparency of the aperture/vent/grill is a ratio of the vent surface area to the displacement of the compartment and all its adjoining cavities. Without question the larger the aperture the better.
Everything about that approach is all about the "HIT", not the SQ. There are so many issues to consider. The vent is just one of them.
The size of the woofer is a factor but the acoustic transparency of the aperture/vent/grill is a ratio of the vent surface area to the displacement of the compartment and all its adjoining cavities. Without question the larger the aperture the better.
I'm going to have to disagree David. The enclosure will be designed, chambers and all, for the specific sub just as it would be if it was going into the enclosure. It's just being located in a different place that has plenty of volume for the 10" sub. I'm confused how you can say SQ is in question in an application like this when the first air the sound will hit is actually inside the cabin instead of a second chamber like the compartment under the passenger seat, then the vent into the cabin. Seems SQ would be much better and much more accurate.
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