Power supply question

[phillid]

Guys, I'm looking for input on if I have sufficient power to my stereo system. I have 2 new batteries hooked to a perko switch. From the switch I have 1/0 gauge power (red) wire, with a 200 amp in-line fuse, running to a fused distribution block. The ground to the distribution block is 1/0 gauge wire direct to the engine block. Output from the distribution block I have 4 gauge wire (power and ground) running to my amps. BTW, the 1/0 and 4 gauge wire, in line fuse and distribution block are all form Knu Konceptz, marine grade stuff, I worked directly with their tech support in making sure this was sufficient.

For amps I have a brand new Wetsounds HTX 6 powering a 10" sub plus 2 brand new wetsounds ICON 8 tower speakers. I have a Polk PD4000.4 amp powering 6 polk 6.5 " in boat speakers.

Does the draw from this system exceed the power supply from 1 deep cell battery while: 1. boat is running under power and 2. sitting at a sandbar

I'm quite amatuerish at this stuff but I have been having troubles lately that seem electrical in nature. Since I upgraded my stereo system earlier this year I am looking for verification that these amps can be supported power wise from the batteries I have in place and that the upgrade is not the root cause of issues I am having (I'll get into those in another thread).

Thanks

[rlwagens]

http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf

I would browse that site a bit before moving forward too. Your limiting factor moving forward while running under power will be your alternator, if its too small you will find out sooner than you think, which if you are having other issues may be what you should be focusing on.

The limiting factor on the deep cycle battery is how long you want to be playing the stereo and how loud until it is depleted. And once again if you are trying to recharge your deep cycle while underway you can circle back to your alternator problem. A 2 bank on board charger will help alleviate some of this and add life to your battery, but not so much to your alternator if it is underpowered. Plenty of other people on here have way more knowledge about that stuff though.

[phillid]

So while under power, either cruising across the lake or in the slow no-wake areas, just using my in-boats and sub, all of a sudden I have no sound, the sound fades away. I can then turn them down and use my towers for a while but then same thing, no sound out of the towers. At that point no sound at all. The next morning, in the garage, with no charge put to the batteries, I have full sound. This makes me think my alternator can't keep the batteries charged while using the stereo, but can keep them charged without using the stereo.

While under power with stereo on my voltage meter reads 14 volts. Earlier this summer I replaced 4 6.5" Polk momo tower speakers with the 2 wetsounds Icon 8s and replaced a Kicker 700.5 amp with the Wetsounds HTX 6 amp. I was under the impression the new Wetsounds amp was more efficient then the Kicker amp. But maybe not so.

[MLA]

1) no

2) no, but the battery will eventually go dead. So, you have to decide how long you want it to play and calculate that by the estimated current draw to come to the desired Ah.

Yes, the HTX-6 is about 50% more efficient then the class-A/B 700.5. However, you also need to take into account that the HTX-6 has a 2 ohm x 6 potential of 900W rms and the 700.5 @ 2 ohm x 5 is about 780W rms. So yes, the class D is more effiant, but it also has the potential to produce more wattage.

Off-idle and under load voltage of 14V at the helm, thats good. What I would want to look at next, is what is the voltage at both batteries and at the amps, under those same conditions.

Id move the amp trunk ground from the block to one of the batteries.