Thanks for the Input guys. I ran out of time to do this before labor Day. I will let you know what i find when I pull the combing pads.
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Feb 2008
- 387
- Grand Rapids, MI
- 2022 GS22 - Coming in July Previous Boats: 1989 Sport Nautique 2002 SANTE
I would seriously like to know how both of you are mounting 6.5" speakers in the drivers panel. I did it on mine, bu it is pretty gangster. I won't even post a picture, but you can rest assured it is not professional and has large gaps. If I could clean it up without having to cut the panel, add fiberglass and re vinyl the panel, I would love to hear about it.
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Me too... I'v fiddled around trying to mount my wet sounds in that kick panel but the wet sounds seem to be just too big. I think some kind of frame and bracket would be needed for sure to support the weight of the wet sounds in that 1/8 inch plastic kick panel. Even with that I would be concerned about the kick panel cracking with all that weight of a big heavy wet sounds speaker when hitting wakes and rough water. Those kick panels are irreplaceable so definitely don't want to damage them. I'm planning on using some plastic compatible epoxy and reinforcing the entire backside of the panel with fiberglass just for that reason whether or not I end up with a speaker in there or not. Right now I'm thinking just leave the speaker cloth cover in that pod for asthetics then mount the wet sounds speaker in the Coosa board next to the breaker box like nautique did with the 2003+ boats.
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When I bought my boat the previous owner had a 6.5 speaker installed in the upper front corner of the kick panel and just left the cloth speaker cover in place. This part of the panel is really out of sight and kind of tucked up under the dash and faces toward the bow. Problem is this part of the panel is very flimsy.... If reinforced properly though this would be a great place astheticslly because you wouldn't see both the speaker cloth cover in the pod and the speaker installed next to the breaker box. Might also consider reusing this location for my wetsound speaker if I can reinforce it with a bracket that secures to the floor to stabilize the area in rough water. That way when in the boat you only see the cloth speaker cover and hopefully can't tell that the sound is coming from another location in the panel.
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Hi Guys, I guess we are talking apples and oranges. My Driver side kick panel "down by the breakers and heater vents" already has a surface mounted 6.5" clarion which I plan to remove an install the WS speaker.
Hoping to get started on this project this weekend. in between kegging the 5 beers I have brewed for the beer festival next weekend.
Cheers,
Rob
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Rob04....got any progress pics? Thinking of doing this for my 2004 sante, but want to know how it works/looks.
Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
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Hi Chris, All,
What started out as speaker upgrade to the wetsounds SW650s turned into an complete onion. when I started to dive into the project I found that there were no speakers installed on the Bow (pics below) and the amp that I was going to use for my tower speakers was a 4 channel amp that isn't stable bridged at 2 ohms(4 Lightning arc audio6.5) which are bridged in pairs.) So I ended up needing 2 amps and decided i might as well do the sub. The new config will be 6 SW650's (powered by the Syn DX6) the arc audio tower speakers powered by a HTX 4. and a new JL 12w3 sub powered with a HTX1. Now to the install.
What I have below is the bow speaker location with the cover and piping removed. I can slide the speaker "its snug" into the existing circle/ring, but the OD of the speaker (screw holes) extend past the existing ring. I am leaning toward making 4 1/2" starboard shims to slide down into the gap between the ring and upholstery, screw them in place from inside the ring to provide mounting locations to screw the speaker into. Does this seem right or should i just get some longer stainless screws and screw through the vinyl to the fiberglass backing since the speaker basket has something to physically bottom out against. (wont compress the upholstry). Please advise.
I am hoping to find the same scenario with the hull speakers.
Also, Does anyone have "sound" advice on how to best protect the audio equipment from being stolen? I was going to use stainless security screws to mount the amps. But I was also thinking of installing a L latch on the observer seat front edge to the floor so I can use a pas lock on (there is space to reach in between the botton edge of the observer seat and the next cushion base.)... at least this would slow someone down from stealing the gear.
Thanks
Rob
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Update! finally had a few hours to work on the boat. As you can see from the first picture with the stock cover removed the speaker could have been mounted on top of the combing pad and would have looked OK. But, If I installed the speakers this way when you raised and lowered the observer seat it would have rubbed (because it stuck out). I wasn't super happy so I decided to recess the speakers into the combing pads. I used 3/4" Starboard (cutting board material) from Tap plastic, since its waterproof and works like wood. here are the steps i took. and pics. this is for the Driver side combing pad.
1) I made a 3/4" thick ring with an inner diameter ~1/4" larger in diameter than the OD of the speaker. 1/4" thick. I did this using a 8"x8" square of Starboard screwed to a support block. made a circle Jig for my router and spiral cut bit. to cut circles. (pm me if you want to know how i did this) Cut the outer first then the center and you are left with a ring.
2) Removed the stock speaker cover and the staples that held the vinyl to the backing. (found it was easiest to use a small screwdriver behind the Vinyl and tap with something light. once the staple was pulled a little bit up, I used some pliers to pull straight up and remove the staple. my outer rings were just held in place by the foam. I then used a heat gun set on low to warm the vinyl and pulled out the old ring(heat gun helped soften the Vinyl and prevent tearing.
3) take the new ring, (be sure to round the top edges to prevent tearing the vinyl when wrapping back around) warm the Vinyl and slide the new ring into position between the vinyl and foam. center the new ring and use a razor blade to cut back the foam(from inside edges of the ring) so that the new ring is supported flat against the backing.
4) Lube the vinyl with plenty of 3M vinyl conditioner and tes fit the speaker by pushing it into the backing. I found that i needed to use a cutting tool to notch the inner backing at the top to prevent the wetsounds speaker terminals for binding/holding the speaker up.
5) use 3 or 4 #4 SST screws from behind to secure the ring in location.
6) use SST staples and some thin cardboard to wrap/reattach the vinyl to the backing. I put the cardboard on top of the vinyl before i stapled since I did not have a true upholstery stapler and the firing pin will typically tear through the vinyl in impact. once stapled, I tore the cardboard away. I used the dividers from a 12 pack of sierra nevada.
7) I warmed the vinyl with the heat gun, and re-lubed it with the vinyl conditioner and inserted the speaker and screwed it to the backing. Nice and flush.
8) For the areas like observer seat where the foam was very thick, (Almost 2 inches) i took the old inner ring and removed 3/4" from its height and used some small angle brackets to secure the new 3/4" recess rings to it. repeating the same steps to reattach and install.
It was a pain in the butt to figure it out, but after the initial R&D and some template making the results look pretty darn good. If i do say so myself! I will post more pics later. since by the time I got the combing pads reinstalled it was raining and I had to cover the boat.
Cheers
Rob.
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