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I have the standard Polk sub in my 230 behind drivers seat. I really don't want to lose my storage in the port locker so I'm thinking about swapping it out for a JL or Wetsounds infinite baffle sub......has anyone done this? Is it worth the money? Is there a way to shore up that compartment so I don't get rattles, etc on the drivers compartment?
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I did the JL in our 210 and had the insulate and line the inside of that throttle panel to reduce the rattles. Rattle reduction was a success but increased sound quality was not as much as I was looking for. Take a quick look through some of my posts here about what I did. Did not lose much storage space at all and made huge sound improvements by adding an 8" sub.
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I've been following that thread. Definitely would go that route but we use every inch of that compartment as I leave my boat on a lift about a half mile from my house and we use it store two wakeboards and a pair of kids skis. And then cover the entire boat. I really don't think I can get those boards in there with that set up. Guess I could move it back farther on that side and have a smaller box fit to the compartment?Originally posted by cedarcreek216
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That's the least amount not of space I couple possibly take up and I looked at everything. I started a thread when looked by that went through all my thought processes.
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The problem with the Polk Audio sub is that it is a low 'Q' sub intended for a small enclosure and not for an infinite baffle application. The JL Audio M10IB is a common replacement because it is a true infinite baffle subwoofer and is properly damped for the application. The undamped nature of the Polk is what creates the unwanted tactile vibration (rattles), when you add a little power. When upgrading the sub you can also add baffle rigidity and you can add damping material to the gunnel surfaces and interior cavity to further reduce the issue. In the end, although greatly improved, you will still have an infinite baffle 10" subwoofer of the identical size with the identical amplifier. So you have to temper your expectations. Is it worth the trouble? IMO, absolutely. To make a marked improvement you'll have to do much more in the form of relocation, enclosure, compartment venting, and amplifier power.Comment
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Thanks guys. Seems like for a small price $300~ I'll have a noticeable improvement which is all I'm looking for. Any suggestions on baffle and dampening material to use?Originally posted by David Analog
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Just a heads up, on the 210 they had to fabricate a mounting ring to get a little more space for the JL sub to mount.
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Check in with Odin at Earmark Marine. He's authorized on-line for JL Audio and Wetsounds. He has pre-made baffle rings and a variety of damping materials. Odin can help you through the finer details including re-tuning the factory amplifier.Comment
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Earmark Lewisville is who did mine.
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Lewisville doesn't do on-line business. Strictly serving the local DFW market.Originally posted by cedarcreek216 View PostComment
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I replaced my stock sub for the IB JL last season. It got about 20 minutes of play time and then I headed for the stereo shop to have an amp and two 12" subs with an enclosure added. I was clearly in a different mindset in terms of what my bass expectations were after having had a direct radiating 12" sub that blew back the hair on my shins in my old boat. Now, that new sub is just taking up space. I still have the original box for it. I'd be willing to part with it for cheap. Not sure what shipping would cost, but I'm sure it'd be worth your while if that's the way you want to go. PM me if you want to save some money on a sub with 20 mins of play time.Comment
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As for reinforcements of the sub hole cutout, when I replaced mine, my deck thickness was between 1/2"-3/4" so I don't see how any reinforcement would help. It's already SOLID. Three out of four cabin speaker openings were in dire need of supplemental support though.Comment
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PM sentOriginally posted by markj
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I texted a pic to your cell.Comment
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Marks, it wasn't for support it was more needed as a spaced to pull the some into the cabin a bit so the back of the sub would fit in the hole and not hit the outside wall.
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