Add a Battery - Recommendations Needed

[jslipher]

I'm installing a second battery (blue sea add-a-battery setup) in my 2014 Sport 200V. Currently it only has 1 battery which is located in the port Vdrive locker and a blue sea on/off switch located under the driver helm. There is also a single bank battery tender installed in the Port Vdrive locker. I have 2 options on how and where to mount the 2 batteries.

1. Keep starter battery where it is currently in the port vdrive locker and install 2nd battery behind observer seat, swap out blue sea on/off switch to dual bank switch, and install ACR Relay in the port vdrive locker.
   1. I will have to run a power wire from the battery in the observer seat back to the ACR Relay in the port vdrive locker. Will this cause noise in the speakers if the power wire run is close to the tower speaker wire (not RCA's from amp)? How close is too close?
   2. I will need to install a new 2-bank battery tender in the vdrive locker, and will then need to run 1 bank's worth of power and ground cables back to the battery in the observer's seat. Any issues with extending the cabling on the battery tender?
2. Install both the starter battery and the 2nd battery behind the observer's seat, next to the amps.
   1. I will need to run 1 new power cable from observer seat under floor to driver helm where the switch is. I will also need to run a ground from the motor back up to the starter battery in the observer's seat.
   2. This option looks cleaner because both batteries, ACR Relay, and battery tender are all in one place behind observer seat. BUT I would lose a lot of storage space behind the observer seat with this option. Space is very limited in the Sport 200.

Which of the 2 options above would you choose? Will option 1 cause noise? Can I extend cabling on battery tender?

Separately, what size cabling should I use? The stock cabling from Nautique is all 6 gauge, but 1 of the new amps I'm buying recommends 4 gauge or bigger (2 current Polk amps are using the 6 gauge). I will be hooking all 3 amps up to a distribution block for both positive and ground.

Lastly, I'm using the 120A add-a-battery kit that comes with the larger e series switch. I'd like to use the smaller m-series switch since Nautique currently uses the m-series and is mounted nicely under the helm. Can I safely use the new m-series battery switch?

• Stock Nautique switch is m-series and is rated 48V / 300A continuous / 500A intermittent / 900A cranking
• Large e-series switch that comes with kit is rated 32V / 350A continuous / 525A intermittent / 700A cranking
• New m-series I'd LIKE to use is rated 32V / 300A current / 450A intermittent / 675A cranking

I know there is a lot in this post, so any feedback/recommendations you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

[MLA]

Ill start with the easy stuff. You can buy the equipment a-la-carte, so choose which ever size switch works best for you.

id would first want my batteries locates so the charger cables can reach them without an extension. If not feasible and a bank needs to be extended, check with the charger manufacturer RE extending, prior to choosing a charger.

I would also prefer to mount the new switch in a spot that does not require moving the existing cables that are wired to the original on/off switch or at least in a spot that they can be rerouted and reach to. Do not extend them, they must be replaced with longer cables if needed.

The ACR is best when located close to the switch.

Ultimately, the ideal scenario is to have the larger then cable, the shorter its has to run. Go by that to find the best compromise in where the everything gets located.

Dont worry about speaker leads and battery cables.

with 3 amps, ditch the individual runs and go with a trunk/branch setup. Use cable size that appropriate for the potential draw V's cable length. For a short branch run from a distribution block to the amp, 6ga is likely fine for those OEM amps.