Stereo Upgrade Help 2009 - 230

[distinguishedmotorsports]

while bridging the output of the amp (speaker wires) you still most connect two channels of audio (RCAs). other wise you are only get one half of the audio signal to the amp and it won't play. may even damage the amp. if your amp has pre outs you can use RCA interconnects to send the signal to other amps. but heads up, any amp connect to that set of RCAs will be attenuated by what ever zone the original source comes from.

[Blamey]

Well this is what I found when I looked at the wiring on my new boat.

Previous owner replaced the 4 channel Polk with a 6 Channel. I am not a fan of this amp as it keep loosing channels while trying to adjust the settings. I don't think its well made and I thing it's started to rattle loose inside.


That said, I can't make heads or tails of this wiring. This is the wiring for the cabin and bow speakers. The port side cabins are connected together in parallel (I assume). So this makes 2 pairs. Port cabin, Starboard cabin, port bow and star board bow.

You can see the labels on the channels 6,2 and 1 across the top. going left to right. The bottom row (can't see the labels) are channels 5,4,3.

You can wire a speaker to an individual channel or bridge the following 3 channels.

1+ to 2-
3+ to 4-
5+ to 6-

This is how they were wired

Port cabin 1+ to 4- (these had output)
Starboard Cabin 3+ to 2- (this was actually playing sound. No idea how)
Port and Starboard bows connected in parallel to 2- to 4+ (these had now output)


I don't have a clue how this was even producing sound or if this is something just beyond my understanding of how amps work.

I have rewired each set to a single unbridged channel. Things seem to be better but like I said. I am going to need to replace that amp soon.

[srock]

I cleaned it up by removing one of the Polk 4 channel amps and replacing it with a 6 channel to run all in boat speakers on 1 amp. The 2nd Polk amp runs the 4 tower speakers. The Fusion head unit has independent preamp connections for each zone giving independent control. (opposed to using the 420 EQ to break out the zones)

As noted above, the front speakers in stock form are fed from the head unit and circumvent the amps.

I suggest cutting the speaker wires loose from the molex plug and wiring them directly into the amps. It avoids confusion and is quicker. I started just like you and finally realized just like I read in other posts that it was better to cut the system back at the speaker side of the molex and move forward.

[Blamey]

I am also getting a new amp to power all in boats but I've opted for a 4 channel as the 4 cabin speakers will be connected in pairs (in paralel) to one channel per pair. They are Wet Sound XS650. I've kept the two best of the Polks for the bow and will power these off the other two channels.

I'm still running the oroginal sub and towers off the stock 5 channel Polk.

Previous owner had installed the ws420. It is a great addition to have independent control of the towers and sub as well as a knob to quickly adjust volume.

I still have a newer clarion headset then what came stock in the boat, but want to update this to something so I can get Bluetooth via the head unit.

Any head unit suggestions? I'd like something that will fit in the dash.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Blamey]

On my 230 I replaced all the speakers. The 4 cabin speakers I replaced over winter with a set of Wet Sounds XS650s I had purchased for my last boat. I never got a chance to compare them to the Polks that we're there.

I was originally going to keep the Polks in the bow speakers but found a pair of Polks I had bought for an older boat that I never installed. I ended up switching out the Polks in the bow for new speakers. The difference between the 9 year old and new speakers was night and day.

This got me to replace the tower speakers (also Polk)again I just replaced them with a new set of Polks. In this case it was the latest Polk 9x9 speakers, the Polk MM692. Again a night and day difference. The new Polks fit perfectly into the Titan II cans, previous model had to be cut to fit.

I don't know what the normal life of a boat speaker is but my boat has over 1000 hours and the Polks were shot. I'd say if you have any doubt on how things are sounding on an older system, look into new speakers.

I am still running the one original polk 5 channel (powering the Sub and towers). The other amp had been replaced by a Lanzar amp that I was not at all fond of (lots of buzzing with the engine and toggling the switching back and forth would cause the amp to loose channels). I replaced this with a NVX 4 channel car amp. The amp is solid and a very popular budget amp. it is actually a clone of the Polk 4 chanell Amp but isn't marine rated. Not sure how it will hold up in a boat but I took a chance on it and if I have issues down the road I'll replace with a marine amp.

I also bought a JL IB M10 sub to replace the Polk but haven't installed it yet. I don't need much in the way of bass but figured I'd get something better suited for the infinite baffel location. Hoping to add a monoblock amp over the winter as the sub is currently under powered.

[dangerdave04]

I ended up with a wetsounds 6 channel amp and moved all the in-boat speakers to that amp (the fronts are on the head unit not the amp) so now I have full control of all the in boats. I used one of the stock Polk amps to power the tower speakers and the was removed. I also added a separate sub amp but will probably relocate the speaker to the passenger storage area.

I removed the Clarion head unit and installed a Fusion with a wired remote on the dash. I did have to make a new dash panel from starboard because the Fusion remote is square and replaces the round Clarion remote. I will have to post up a picture but it came out nice and clean.

The sound is much improved and I am very happy with the Fusion head unit. Adjust-ability is great and has a 3 band EQ but the biggest plus is the easy, quick access to separate zone volume controls and the master volume knob. I use the bluetooth function to play music and the Fusion app is just another great way to control sound. I use the app to run music on an old iPhone in a lifeproof case.

Of note, I took the advice of many posters and ditched the stereo speaker wiring harness/plugs at the amps and that was a blessing. The speakers wires are all labeled so landing them in the right place was easy.

I still have the stock speakers and I only listen at moderate volumes and it sound really good to me and once I add the new sub I will be very satisfied.

What started as a simple let me fix a couple things grew into a bigger project but I think what you will find if you try to fix 1 thing it will still not be right and the "fix" will grow. When my stick speakers begin to fall apart or fail I will make that change but so far I am happy with the sound.

Were you able to maintain the volume increase and decrease function based the throttle with your install of the head unit? Are there any specific things that need to be done to keep this feature?

Thanks!