Factory wiring looms 06 210 SE

[93Euro]

I've already hooked up a sony head unit with remote and Ipod interface using all the stock wiring(speaker,power, and ground). I have quite a few wiring looms that don't go anywhere, I guess since it's the stripped down version. Within the stock stereo wiring loom there was a second set of power(red) and ground (black). I was thinking these could be for the factory installed amp, but the gauge of the wire is so small. Does anyone know what it's for? I just got an amp today and was thinking of testing it out by hooking it up there. Could I do damage to the amp from using under sized wires?

[93Euro]

Also, there seems to be something glassed in to the side of the boat at the factory amp location. I'm assuming it's ok to screw the amp in there. Maybe 3/4 '' thick?

[Flux]

RE: Factory wiring looms 06 210 SE

Don't trust it, plain and simple.

I am not sure how the 06's are wired but I will give you a few things that I have found out from my O2.

Firstly, CC only supplied about 30 amps total to everything under the dash. The black box which has all the breakers and relays integrated is fused for 30 amps. My system has 2 batteries with 2 switches and a common busbar. The stock amp that came with the 02 is 40 watts X4, they used no thicker than 12 gauge to it. It has a blown channel so I replaced it with a bit more power, but will run 10 gauge marine wire to it but would use 8 gauge regular auto wire. The amp was powered by the terminals on the black box, so it was on the 30 amp fuse. We never had a problem. My ballast pumps also went through the black box.

I am rewiring my ballast pumps this weekend for independent control. I am actually running an auxiliary power bus underneath the dash. I am moving the pumps and the amp onto this bus to take the load off the black box and for ease of wiring. It will handle 100 amps total, but I will probably only ever ask it to give me 40-50 unless I get tower speakers and need another amp or want some huge subwoofer or something.

In short, I would not install any high amp devices to the factory nautique electrical system. Run some thicker gauge stuff right off your batteries for your amp. you might also consider putting in some really heavy wires from you battery to your amp location and put some terminal blocks in their too. The factory wiring is all over the place and i have been advised by serious installers and modifiers just to run my own power separate from the dash power so I don't mess anything up.

Good luck.

[Flux]

RE: Factory wiring looms 06 210 SE

I am not sure about the glassed in panel you are speaking of, mine had a carpeted board that was attached some how. My replacement amp was smaller in size so it's easy for me.

[93Euro]

Thanks Flux.
I am going to run all new wiring to do it right, just takes time. I was excited about the amp and wanted to just temp it in to see what it sounded like.

was just assuming it was glassed in. I didn't pull the carpet back to check. I just see to humps in the carpet where they install the factory amps.

[Flux]

You are probably correct about the humps.

I am giving you "safe" advice. I would hate to see you pop a fuse or mess up your brand new boat over an amp. As great as these boats are, they leave little room for upgrades and the wiring under the dash is a nightmare mess. I spent alot of time just looking it over and figuring the scheme out before deciding on what best to do. The original advice given to me was "leave the factory wiring alone and add your own". They were correct.

[YoungLifeSkiMission]

I have installed a head unit, speakers, tower speakers and Amp, all using the wiring thats there, and it works perfectly..
The 'humps' are there to mount the amp, the amp is wired to the battery with a seperate wiring kit that has a fuse and is a thick gauge wire, the amp is turned on/off by a 'tracker' wire that your head unit should have, this turns in on/off when the head unit is on/off.
I just ran the ground to the ground that is sticking out of the factory wiring..works fine.
You can easily do more, but the guys at the factory aren't dumb, they wouldn't put it there if its no good and not 'safe' to use.
Thats my opinion, have some faith in the designs..
Check out my thread on my stereo/amp install, there is pics.

[redrobin]

The second set of positive and negative are to run other accessories that are not fitted to your particular boat. Don't even think about running your amp off them or you will pop the circut breaker and maybe even damage the wires & amp or start a fire (worst case) in the process. You need a fitting kit (a car parts store shoud have one) for the amp and this will have the 30amp wire included.

The amp must be fed from the battery positive and the earth should be to the boats main earth frame which should be under the dash. There will be a sense wire on the head unit that connects to the "remote" or "switch" terminal of the amp. If the head unit hasn't a sense wire, you can also use the power antenna wire if you are using an automotive type head unit.

The glassed in area is a thick sheet of glass specifically for mounting an amp to, so there is no poblem using that location, thats what its for.

Hope this helps

Darryl

[93Euro]

thanks for the replies.
I am going to wire the amps the right way and even add a 2nd battery.
I just wanted to see what it sounded like with the amp (temp hookup). After seeing some of the wiring in the rest of the boat, it wouldn't have shocked me to think that they used those two leads (as small as they are) for the amp.

I was kind of dissapointed in the sound.

I have a Sony cdx-gt400 with 4 polk db650's wired to the head unit

I hooked up a kicker kx 550.3 with the 4 speakers wired to 2 ch in parallel.

Didn't sound that different to me. Maybe I'm limited by the Polks. They're only 60 watt speakers, but every one seems to use them.