Replacing speakers/amp on 2015 G23 CE - What is recommended with my current setup?

[makesumwake]

1. Im replacing the interior speakers (stock installation) and an amp that is bad
or potentially a whole new system if it make sense


2. CURRENT SETUP

2x tower JL 7.7 - MCS-77CCX5-4-TB (these were what was stock, and i already replaced them with 2 new ones of the same model)
6x Polk mm651 interior speakers - these are pretty much shot after 4yrs salt water use)
Polkaudio 10in sub (works fine)

2 amps
PA D4004.4
PA D5005.5

Head unit
Polk PA450UM - works fine


3. ISSUES

a. i forget which amp works what, but one of the tower speakers always cuts out once the amp gets hot (speak is brand new). so i figured i need a new amp

b. also currently the volume randomly changes constantly. and when i speed up, then reduce throttle, the sound goes way down. maybe a feature, but i dont want it.

c. half the interior speaks arnt working or sound bad....salt corrosion setting in


4. NEW SYSTEM NEEDS

Im preferring to go all JL if possible
ill install 6 new interior speakers, and a new amp (maybe more power?) that wont cut out
might also get 2 more tower speakers installed if thats not too hard

maybe i can bypass the console completely and just connect my phone with bluetooth to the head unit in the glove box? skip all the issues with the console and control it with my phone only









SPECS ON CURRENT SYSTEM
polk mm651
Type: Full Range
Channels: 2‑way
6.5in (or 6.75in?)
6-3/4" 2-way speakers (pair)
woven honeycomb glass fiber composite woofer cone with butyl rubber surround
1" silk composite dome tweeter with swivel mount
includes two external crossovers (speaker wire not included)
certified for marine use
2.7-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
power range: 15-100 watts RMS (200 watts peak power)
frequency response: 40-25,000 Hz
sensitivity: 94 dB @ 1 watt



PA D5005
5-channel car amplifier
70 watts RMS x 4 + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
100 watts RMS x 4 + 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
200 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm
variable gain, high-pass filter (40-400 Hz 12 dB/octave), and low-pass filter (80-4000 Hz, 12 dB per octave) for front channels
variable gain and high-pass filter (40-4000 Hz 12 dB/octave) for rear channels
variable gain, low-pass filter (40-220 Hz, 12 dB/octave) and subsonic filter (20-38 Hz) for subwoofer channel
wired remote subwoofer level control
preamp inputs
fuse rating: 40A x 2
4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier



PA D4004

PA D Series 4-Channel Class D Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 200 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 400 watts x 2 chan.
CEA-2006 Compliant Amplifier
Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supply
LED power (blue) and protect (red) indicators
Soft start turn-on
4, 3 and 2 Channel Operation
4-way protection circuitry (thermal, overload, reverse polarity & speaker short protection)
Heavy duty aluminum alloy heat-sink
Nickel-plated RCA level inputs
Nickel-plated screw terminals
Input sensitivity: 200mV - 6V
Frequency Response: 20 - 20,000 Hz
Damping Factor: >100
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): <0.1%
Signal to Noise Ration: 105 dBA
Selectable crossover modes: LPF / FULL / HPF , with 10x Multiplier
Variable high-pass filter: 20 - 400 Hz (10x Capable), 12 dB/octave
Variable low-pass filter: 50 - 500 Hz (10x Capable), 12 dB/octave
Fuse Rating: 40A x 1 + 35A x 1
Supply Voltage: 10V - 16V
12 AWG Speaker Connections

[MLA]

The PAD400.4 should power the tower speakers. You can confirm by disconnecting a power cable, then power the system up and see which speakers no longer play.

[distinguishedmotorsports]

1. Im replacing the interior speakers (stock installation) and an amp that is bad
or potentially a whole new system if it make sense


2. CURRENT SETUP

2x tower JL 7.7 - MCS-77CCX5-4-TB (these were what was stock, and i already replaced them with 2 new ones of the same model)
6x Polk mm651 interior speakers - these are pretty much shot after 4yrs salt water use)
Polkaudio 10in sub (works fine)

2 amps
PA D4004.4
PA D5005.5

Head unit
Polk PA450UM - works fine


3. ISSUES

a. i forget which amp works what, but one of the tower speakers always cuts out once the amp gets hot (speak is brand new). so i figured i need a new amp

b. also currently the volume randomly changes constantly. and when i speed up, then reduce throttle, the sound goes way down. maybe a feature, but i dont want it.

c. half the interior speaks arnt working or sound bad....salt corrosion setting in


4. NEW SYSTEM NEEDS

Im preferring to go all JL if possible
ill install 6 new interior speakers, and a new amp (maybe more power?) that wont cut out
might also get 2 more tower speakers installed if thats not too hard

maybe i can bypass the console completely and just connect my phone with bluetooth to the head unit in the glove box? skip all the issues with the console and control it with my phone only

lots of things. what do you mean by console?

JL m6 is the way to go, rgb is your choice.

3x m6-650x, two bridged at 2 ohm for **** pit, bow as normal
2x ETXv3-M6-770x
JL sub if wanted, m6-10ib

RCAs are could be your issue with the intermittent noise issues, grab a replacement RCA, see what changes. don't recall polk have Speed sensative volume but there are aftermarket options to add that feature, could be on your boat.

the M6 speakers and subs are incredible.

[makesumwake]

thanks!

on the 2015 G23, the stereo control is integrated into the digital control center in front of the steering wheel. not sure if that is the part that is messed up or not.

i dont have noise, i just get constant volume changes. i have to keep turning the volume back up.