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Got the boat on the water last weekend for the first time this season, only issue I've got is my sub, the JL Audio 12W3v3 powered by XD600/1, does absolutely nothing. After some trouble shooting and ultimately hooking up the old sub I still have laying around, it appears that the source (WS-420) and all the amps are fine, but the sub is dead. I've only had the sub for 2 seasons, was expecting it to last a little longer than that... The sub didn't get soaked with water as it's under the observer seat, but it is on a boat so it's not the driest place in the world. I've inquired with JL Audio as to what I might could check, but looking over their website, it looks like a repair is going to cost ~$160 plus shipping to/from. Guessing that is going to put me in the market for another sub this year. So to that end, what do you guys recommend as a replacement using the same amp set up in the same price range as the 12W3? I liked the JL, but I'm not looking to replace it every 2 years. Anybody have any experience with the WS REVO 12? Thanks
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Actually, just did the obvious thing and measured the resistance of the sub, and got an open, so I'm guessing it's shot... -
No longer under warranty? Have you checked with your dealer? Was the open measured right at the woofer's terminals or at the amp?
Is your W3 2 or 4 ohm?Comment
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It's the 2 ohm. Measured at the woofers terminals. I'm also tracking that the amp is 600W @ 2ohm vs subs 500W rating, but didn't think I was running it that hard, but very well could have been the issue. I went with that sub/amp combo based on folks (honestly can't remember who) recommendations since I'm not exactly a stereo genius (obviously).Comment
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Is that a car audio woofer?
Yikes, looks like you went hot on the power..... It would look to me like 250 is the target power. Odd that it would go bad over the winter though. That doesn't make a lot of sense unless it was damaged by moisture.Attached FilesLast edited by bturner; 04-10-2020, 12:47 PM.Comment
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To answer part of your question... I’m using a Sundown Audio SA-12 with a 1000 watt amp and it does a very good job at a reasonable price IMO. It can handle more power than they advertise from what I’ve seen but your amp will be well within its limits.
Sent from my iPhone using PLT NautiqueJason
All black 2003 SANTE
-- Southern Fried --Comment
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Thanks Jason, I was actually reading your cut the hump thread and you mentioned your sub model, may give it shot. But then I'm afraid it'll be under powered.. oh well, next year's money...Comment
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So you can measure the coil and its 2 ohm? Are you sure the woofer is blown? Is the motor frozen? Can you push the cone in and it freely and quietly moves in and then back out?Originally posted by crimedog View Post
With the woofer's 500W rms paired with a 600W rms amp, does not pose a problem IMO. You might be able to meter the outputs and see what the wattage output is, based on the voltage.
The 4 ohm Revo-12 would net 400W rms from the amp. That woofer performs ok at that wattage, especially in a ported enclosure.Comment
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I measure the coil and get an open reading on the the meter. Also, the cone does not move at all. It's been a couple years since I set it up, but I used a meter and test tone to set the gain. I don't recall what I set it to, but can get some readings this weekend as I haven't touched it since.
Which leads me to a follow on question. I'm using a WS420 with a WW-BT-VC as the source. My question is, when setting up to adjust the gains, all the instructions say to set the source to 75% of full volume. I've got 3 volume controls feeding the system, Phone, BT, and 420. Just wondering what each items volume should be set to while setting the gains. I was planning on trying it a couple different ways this time just to see how it changes affect the inputs to the amp, just wondering if you guys had similar experience/advice.
Think I'm going to go the Sundown route as a replacement.Comment
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If the meter shows open AND you cone doesn't move when pressed that is all the info you need to call that sub dead IMO!Originally posted by crimedog View Post
I have a WS420SQ using my iPhone plugged in with a 3.5mm cable to the 420.
When I set my gains I was using an SMD DD-1... I found the max volume setting without distortion on the iPhone first, then moved to the 420 and did the same, then moved to the amps to set the gains. If you don't have a clean signal going to the amps first then it will be difficult the optimally set the amp gains. I rarely use it, but did this same procedure for the HU as well going through the 420 to make sure everything is clean. Only time I get a bit worried is if someone wants to plug in their phone... then I just don't turn their phone volume up all the way and keep my ears open for distortion. Never had an issue.
In your case it will be similar... test the WW-BT-VC for a clean signal to the 420, check the 420 for clean signal to the amps, and finally set the amp gains.Jason
All black 2003 SANTE
-- Southern Fried --Comment
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I suggest not maxing the phone volume out, so 85% is likely a safe ceiling. Also make sure its internal EQ is off or flat. For setting each zone, you would want the master volume at 100%, then use the zone volume dial for which amp you are setting. As long as you have not maxed the 420SQ's internal gains, its clean at 100%Originally posted by crimedog View PostComment
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Thanks all for the explanations... Makes perfect sense.Comment
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