Suggestions for replacement of sv211 stereo head unit

[Drummer1]

Hello all, I have an '04 SV211 with the typical Clarion head unit and in dash remote. The remote display has become pretty weak and I'm looking to possibly replace the stereo. Looking at the entire internet for a solid replacement is over-exhausting at best. Could anyone recommend a decent stereo head unit that has an in dash remote? I definitely don't need the best or most expensive thing on the water and I know some fabrication will be needed to the dash. So if anyone has some experience with doing this I would really appreciate some reasonable options. Thank you

[bturner]

Exactly what head unit do you have now? What size is your remote is in your dash? What does the rest of your system look like?

If you have simple installation one option would be to just replace the remote in the dash with a head unit and skip the other location all together. If you're running amps and tower speakers this can be more challenging as you'd have to get the inputs and remote power wires from one side of the boat to the other.

[Stevemo14]

There are so many options out there it really depends on what you are trying to do, and if you really need a true head unit.

1. Do you need the head unit to power speakers?
2. Are you only using Bluetooth?
3. Are you looking for multiple remotes, IE transom, dash, some other places?
4. Do you need Zone control?
5. Budget?

These are just some of the questions I would ask first. If you have amps running everything, maybe a simple Bluetooth controller is enough. Maybe you want zone control and want something like the Wetsounds WS-420, or Roswell zone control knob.

If you can be more specific on what you need and then what you want i'm sure we can help steer you in the right direction.

[NautiqueJeff]

Moving this to the Stereo section...

[Woody_tobius_jr]

I also have an ‘04 SV211 ANTE, I replaced all interior speakers with Wetsounds and 2 - 80’s on the tower, a 12” sub in the storage compartment down below the glove box. I have two Wetsounds amps running this and controlling this is a Wetsounds Bluetooth ws420 eq. I still have the factory head unit and dash remote but the only thing that it controls is power on/off . All the volume and settings are controlled from my 420 which is mounted under my dash to the right of my steering wheel. I’m
Very happy with the sound that this puts out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MLA]

Definitely need to know if its a CMD or XMD and if the remote is round or oval, surface mounted or recessed in a molded panel.

[Drummer1]

Sorry for the delay, I've been occupied and couldn't get back to the post. Okay, it's a stock Clarion XDM3 with remote. Head unit in the glove box. I have a JL Audio MBT-RX bluetooth receiver installed as an aux input. The Clarion feeds a Rockford amp that drives the boat speakers, it also feeds a Wetsounds WS-420 EQ that has a Wetsounds amp for the tower and another Audiobahn amp for a small sub. The picture (not my boat but the same setup) shows the remote to the left of the steering wheel. The face is pretty loose so the display is non existent unless you push in on it. I have seen some custom fabrication of mounting plates for that location that would allow a different remote which is where I'm leaning. But to answer other questions; I'm only looking for one remote, no transom needed. And the budget is maybe $2-300 but preferably down around 2.

Not to go off on other tangents but regarding Amps, has anyone every experienced an amp going into protection mode when throttling up? I know it points to a votage regulator but it's only peaking at around 14 volts when metered at the amp. So I guess it's two questions; 1) good replacement stereo and remote option. 2) Weird amp problems when
throttling up? Thanks again

[Stevemo14]

I would order this https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...round-remotes/, and if it were me i would order any new 3.5" unit that suits you to put in it.

[bturner]

Excellent call there. I hate it when a manufacture uses these customer plates that only fit one non standard designed component. Mine is designed for a Clarion remote head unit that has already gone end of life. When it does fail I'll be having to try my best to make something look good that won't fit.

The problem I see with this solution is that you only have one unit to choose from if you want to stay with your current layout. The only 3" remote I'm seeing is the Clarion MW1 which is $179. You would then have to add a head unit to this like an M508 for $189 or the even more expensive M608 for $379 if you have a double DIN now and want to use the same format to cover the holes. Unless you have a compatible cable you'll need one of these $22 cables as well. Either way this is going to be more than $200 which to be honest is low for a project like this.

The other alternative would be to use the same replacement panel but install a full on head unit in the dash and eliminate the head unit from the glove box. This leaves you making a blanking panel for the old radio and running the output of the head unit from the dash to where the amps are located. Unless you run the power and ground cables to the amps or at least to where the amps are getting their power, in a boat you'll risk creating a ground loop. Getting from one side of the boat to the other in most boats I've installed systems on is not fun and there is cost associated with wire, connectors and long quality RCA patch cables. Any other accessories like remote USB ports or remote audio jacks will also need to be considered in the relocation as well.

IMO the smart move would be cutting a vanity plate for the existing location of a double DIN Clarion (I believe this is what you have) and go with the M508 along with the 3" remote. If you don't have the double DIN head unit then it should be a single DIN and you're gold without the extra effort of cutting a plate. This will make the installation pretty much "plug and play" as the main wiring harness is probably still the same. If you're lucky the remote cable will still work and that would be plug and play as well.

As with almost every installation I've done for people they drastically under estimate cost of a quality installation and so it would follow the cost of the gear. In this case unless you plan to hack it in you have as well. So realistically what is this going to look like in cost? This will depend on what needs to be replaced and who's doing it. Let's assume the worst case with you doing the installation and go from there.

• Head Unit - $189
• Remote - $179
• Extension Cable - $22
• Replacement dash panel - $169
• Total without shipping or tax - $559

If you can reuse your remote and cable you could actually get away just under your $200 budget but I'm not seeing your head unit as you have it listed in the compatibility list. This would also assume your remote is still good and compatible so you'll have to do some research to verify that.

[bturner]

As to your protection issue.....

I'm only aware of two external conditions that will do this and they are heat and power. Low power or an getting too hot will definitely cause the amp to cycle down. I have no clue who or how the system was wired but if I were to go on what I've seen installed by the local car audio shops or weekend warriors my first guess would be an installation issue of some sort. You also appear to have a "custom" system going on there with a lot of non matching components which is fine but also throws a flag for me when I get these.

I would assume you have a dual battery set up but once again I have no idea of the type or quality of the instillation that was done. Hopefully at a minimum the installation was done with an isolator relay and properly sized marine grade power cables for the amps.

If I were troubleshooting this I would start at the batteries then move on to the infrastructure (basic wiring, terminal blocks, connectors and cable ends). Checking voltages doesn't reflect the condition of the battery. The batteries need to be load tested to see if you have a dead or dying cell. After the batteries check good then you can look at cabling for issues like poor grounding or bad connectors.

I'm sure others will have their own way of trouble shooting and suggestions but this method was how I was taught and has worked well for me over the years.....

[Stevemo14]

In this users situation, the replacement panel and any new head unit there should work. He has stated he already has a WS420 under the dash, so the RCA's are already run. He would just need to run one set out of the new head unit to the input of the WS420.

I have a very similar setup, Rockford RFX5000 hideaway unit, 3 remotes, WS420 and 2 amps. I have the hideaway unit by the amps, and the WS420 under the dash. I ran 15' RCA's ( 4 sets ), the dash remote, and the transom remote in sheathing around the bow ( could't find a way to get it under and over with the center ballast tank ).

If it were me, and i didn't need a radio tuner, i would just get a Bluetooth adapter and control everything from my phone. the WS420 can be your volume knob if you don;t want to use the phone volume.

https://www.wetsounds.com/product/WW-BT-UR or https://www.wetsounds.com/product/WW-BT-VC-V2 would be the way i would go. I was going to go this way myself, but the wife said she wanted a transom remote because i always have it to loud.

[MLA]

I would order this https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...round-remotes/, and if it were me i would order any new 3.5" unit that suits you to put in it.

This ^^^ and go with one of the round compact media units. May not even need a traditional full size head unit.

The M608 is not as wide as the XMD, so a filler plate would need to be needed to go between the deck and M608. May need a backing plate as well, to give the M608's mounting screws something to bit. The cutout is likely sloppy, so even with the M508 or similar, may also need a filler plate.