2017 GS20 adding tower speakers to basic stereo package

[Tigerxj]

My dad picked up a 2017 GS20 earlier this fall, we got to use a it a few times before winterizing it last week. He is wanting to add (probably a single) pair of JL tower speakers. We are not major audiophiles but would like to hear the music a bit more when out cruising/skiing/surfing. The boat has the standard stereo/lighting package - I think 4 cabin speakers powered from the head unit if I am not mistaken. No sub, no tower speakers, no amp. Also no lighted cupholders (but it is prewired) or lighting in the stock cabin speakers.

Would it be reasonable to go with a 3 channel amp to power an enclosed sub and two tower speakers, and leave the 4 stock speakers running from the head unit? Also sounds like we'll probably want to add a zone control for the tower.

If we are adding speakers to the tower, I am trying to talk him into going with the lighted speakers (lighted cones, not the downlight caps). This would add some complexity, and would require an additional RGB controller - I assume, don't know for a fact that we couldn't add that function to the LINC Panoray. Is it worth the extra cost/complexity to add the lighting?

the tower is pre-wired, but I still need to verify if it is prewired for lighting. If not, I probably will not bother with it lighted tower speakers

[99bison]

2cents of opinion for me:

Tower likely not wired for RGB lights as that’s not an option on Nautique afaik.

Amp powering a pair of tower and sub should be fine, likely 4 channel with bridged configuration. Someone more up on the JL current setups should be able to recommend.

HU powered in-boat probably weak for matching the tower output but all this depends on budget, how loud, quality, etc.

[bturner]

If your 17 GS20 is anything like my 16 Sport Nautique your tower will be wired for both light (down lights) and speakers. Have no clue how the LEDs in the speaker themselves work, what would be needed to add light control inside the speakers or if the JLs would handle multi color.

I did about the same thing you're looking at doing and added the following....

• JL Audio 600/6 amp
• JL Audio 10" sub
• JL Audio M880-ETXv3 Tower Speakers
• JL Audio zone controller

My channels are as follows....

• 2 channels for the 2 tower speakers
• 2 channels bridged for the sub
• 2 channels powering the 4 speakers in parallels (2 Ohm) for the cabin speakers

The existing breakers were set up in my power panel for 2 amps. The large breaker I believe was 60 amp which was perfect for the JL 600/6 amp. The other breaker I believe is 40 amp which would just happen to be perfect for a JL 400/4. Someone with the stereo package would have to confirm what amps Nautique used but if I were guessing this is what I think they would be using. If I were taking the stereo to the next level I would add a JL 400/4 to run the cabin speakers and run the bow (2 channels), tower (2 channels) and sub (2 channels bridged) off the JL 600/6.

On my installation I used the existing breaker in the power panel for the JL 600/6 and had to run the cables for ground and power from the panel to the amp located under the dash in front of the passenger seat. I also had to run speaker wires from the base of the tower to the amps as the wire from the tower stopped at the base and there were no wires running any further from the tower for the speakers. I used the JL zone control for it's simple integration with the amp and use it to control the gain of the tower speakers remotely at the helm. The remote uses what looks like telephone cable with RJ11s to plug into the amp and a rheostat that I mounted under the dash at the helm. It's simple, works great and easy to quickly adjust the gain of the tower speakers.

As my rig sits now, the stereo is respectable, not over the top but respectable. The 880s on the tower are loud and crisp and IMO more than enough for surfing and loud enough for wakeboarding without killing the residents of our inland lake with our music. I'd really like to finish out the system but to be truthful it's a small boat and we've never really needed more that we have now although I would like those bow speakers. Trouble is another pair of JLs for the bow would be about $275 and that JL 400/4 is another $500. I keep waiting for someone looking to upgrade to one of those monster stereos to pick up their used amp but so far no joy.

[Tigerxj]

thanks for the replies.

bturner, sounds like you've done about what we would want to do. The lighted cones aren't a must-have, but neat enough that if it were an easy add-on I would consider it, but I think the music is the primary concern here! where did you mount your amp? I think from the factory the GS come with the sub in the passenger side under seat storage towards the bow, and i'd probably stuff one in there. Like you said, we aren't looking to overpower the other boats at the waterfall or sandbar, just something we can actually hear above idle speed. If I am reading your response correctly, you switched your factory cabin speakers to run off the new amp, rather than off the head unit, correct?

i really need to send more time crawling around it, we just havent had a chance yet, but our winter is short and this is the time to get this stuff done!

[bturner]

I tried to make my installation as stock looking as possible. Part of the reason I went with JL, that and I've worked with JL in boats quite a bit and have had really good luck with their products. The stock sub from Nautique is a 10" and location on my boat for the sub was in the walk through on the passenger side. I went with the more expensive sub that supported more power as it's been my experience the higher performance sub will pay off significantly in performance in a non-enclosure installation. The amp is mounted on a piece of HDPE that attaches to mounting locations on the port hull side across from the sub from the factory.

For my installation I went with the JL 600/6 to have enough channels to run the cabin speakers as well as the tower and sub. I found the 75 watts RMS from the JL plenty for the tower speakers and 150 watts from the bridged 2 channels a good match for the sub. The 4 little 6/5" speakers run fine at 2 ohm but I would really like to run them on separate channels if I can pick up a used amp one day.

I went with the m880 tower speaker mostly because they were an upgrade to the standard m770s from Nautique, they didn't cost that much more and the reviews were better on them. I can't do an A/B test with them to compare of course but I am happy them. I had a pair of Wet Sounds Rev 8s on my last boat and I'm just as happy with these as I was with the Rev 8s.

As far as accessories to do the instillation, I got all my speaker wire and power/ground cables from https://www.genuinedealz.com/Genuninedealz.com. They sell marine rated materials and have good prices/service.

[MLA]

I doubt you will find a 3 chnl amp that would adequately power a pair of tower speakers. I would look at a 5 or 6 chnl amp. Bridge it to a 3 chnl amp.

[Tigerxj]

I doubt you will find a 3 chnl amp that would adequately power a pair of tower speakers. I would look at a 5 or 6 chnl amp. Bridge it to a 3 chnl amp.

I notice you are in the Wylie area and have read some of your posts, we are in upstate SC. Do you do installs?