04 SAN 210 audio/wiring overhaul

[Iamwildbill]

I am looking to pretty much completely redo the entire audio system on an 04 SAN 210. Super sport nautique to be specific. It has 5 6.5 speakers, 3 amps, 1 sub that I literally just found and know nothing about, and 4 tower speakers, 2 of which I have removed from the boat.

I just found the sub and two amps under the helm at the kick plate, but tucked behind it completely out of sight. I actually really love the idea but the execution sucked. I was wondering if anyone had seen this configuration and how to get the sub out? It looks like someone added fiberglass to hold all this stuff together and I’m so puzzled by it.... I’m gonna try to attach pictures. Only idea is to remove the front seats on the starboard side and hope I can get the sub out through there? I can’t get it out with this hump in the way.

While we’re at it everyone can add their 2c about what I should do for audio configuration with amps/speakers/brands too. I’m kind of avoiding wetsounds... yes they’re high quality but it’s overkill for what I use the boat for. I have a 1yr old and even though we ride a ton, we’re not blaring music the whole ride.

Any and all advice welcomed and appreciated!

Also, sorry about the pictures I can not figure out how to get them right from my phone. Terribly annoying.


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[Chris Parsons]

The red trapezoid is factory. In some boats it exists. It can be cut out using a grinder wheel. Looks like the box is behind it... if I had to guess I bet it's just screws

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[Iamwildbill]

Yea I saw another post with the hump removal and realistically I would like to leave it because it hides everything well.... but I can’t figure out how they got the box in and out of there?

[Chris Parsons]

Is it just me... this box doesn't look all that big. Just pull it out.

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[Iamwildbill]

No, I have to admit the picture def makes it look like a really dumb question. The speaker is literally touching the back of the bow seating and the bow seating angles towards the hump. I agree someone had to get it in there... I didn’t know the hump was factory when writing this post. I’m sure they didn’t build the boat around the sub lol.

[Skidave]

I just a full refresh on my audio system (minus head unit). All new speakers, sub and wiring.

I added my amps under the passenger seat storage area. I didn't want to loose any storage space, so purchased amps that I could get tucked in tightly and made a new amp rack.

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[Iamwildbill]

Skidave... that’s sick. I like how it hangs on the notch. I’ve got the amp for my tower speakers tucked under there and I think I may leave it. Thinking of doing 1 amp for interior speakers with sub output. That will reduce space taken behind kick plate... then I will have to build a box to place the sub in a similar location as to where it’s mounted. Trying to keep all the storage space I can. Where did you put your sub?

Are you happy with the mtx stuff? And did you do all marine grade considering it’s tucked away? My plan was to go all marine audio just to be safe.

[Skidave]

Thanks for the compliment. Our system was original from 2003 when we purchased the boat. It was to the point where we could barely hear the music swimming and in 03 the speaker by the driver was moved to the kick panel. It was always horrible in the driver's seat. Audio is not our priority, but the upgrade was long overdue.

My wife said go with a limited budget and I went forth. The MTX amps are fine. They are not class-D, but heat doesn't appear to be an issue with testing so far. Also, they are not marine grade. That area never gets wet and the boat is in my garage when not in use. MTX vs another brand came down to price and size. They are 4 channel amps. I have the rear and middle speakers powered by one amp, the tower speakers I added are powered by another 2 channels from the other amp and then I bridged the last 2 channels for the sub. The bow speakers are still powered by the head unit. I replaced all the factory speaker wiring except for the bow speakers. I also ran new power and ground for the amps and head unit. Everything is grounded by the amps in the small distribution block and power is distributed there as well.

I used the Polk DB series for all the speakers. I just used 6x9 tower speakers / cans for now. I can always upgrade them to better products in the future. I do not need to hear music while I'm riding. But would like to hear it when we swim and chill.

As for a sub, I measured and tried various things. Honestly, the only thing I could get to fit without major fabrication was a Bazooka tube. Ha! Yes. I don't have the hump, but I had other venting and stuff in the way. I already dumped 50 or 60 hours into everything else, so I wasn't about to fab up a sub box with weird shapes / corners / angles, etc. I wanted something serviceable and not having to loose any space with the kick panel. I had thought about incorporating a front firing sub into the kick panel, but then to get it in and out, I would have to remove the driver's seat. Not happening. Plus, steering cable and other things were in the way. I wedged a Bazooka into the space with it firing into the corner and did a bunch of vibration control with the cables and other stuff. It sounds good for what I could do with the space.

Not having local shops around any longer and limited supplies at Best Buy, I ordered everything online. Amps, speakers and sub from Crutchfield. Cables, connectors, distribution, fuses, etc from http://www.knukonceptz.com/

Would I have liked to have JL Audio amps and subs, and better tower speakers...yes. But for a few hundred bucks and easy upgrade-ability in the future, I have a good system.

FYI, I tested the the 2 bow Polk DB speakers before I even connected the amps. They were louder and much clearer than the old Clarion speakers from day 1. Now having 8 really good speakers is awesome. I already did my Spring startup on the hose. I did some minor tuning while the boat was idling and it is super loud with just my minimal setup. I can't wait for the water and warm weather.

[MLA]

Just an FYI, a 4 chnl amp can easily power 6 speakers, so you can take the bow speakers off the head unit if you choose.

[Iamwildbill]

I think one of the main points you made is not having local shops. I’m in San Antonio so there are tons of car audio shops but not many that I can find work on boats. I’ll likely end up doing the work and wiring myself. I may get a custom box similar to the one in the original pics made. That box started to fall apart when I went to pull it out.

My biggest issue is time. I use the boat year-round so don’t wanna miss a bunch because of something like audio. So, I’m getting wiser people’s input before I do everything.

Currently here’s what I’m thinking:

-Replace my 5 clarion speakers with 6 kicker 6.5” marine speakers (need to find a place for the 6th)
-Replace cheap head unit guy before me bought (fusion?)
-10” sub (still searching for power/brand)
-Looking at Soundstream 2000D to amp speakers and sub. It’s got 4 speaker channels and a sub channel
-Refurbish 2 wet sounds rev 10s and 1 rev 410 (they’re sun faded and ugly)
-keep JL 450/4 amp for tower speakers

Open to suggestions!


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[Stevemo14]

I think the best place for the Sub is in the pass though. I used a 12", but a 10" would probably fit better.



AS far as head units, I put a new one in ( Rockford Fosgate RFX5000 ) but I don't even think its necessary. A Bluetooth adapter straight into my WS420 would have been just fine. I don't think I have ever used any other input on the thing.

[Iamwildbill]

They make a WS-420 BT now so you don’t even need an adapter. I was kind of thinking the same thing of not needing a head unit. I was only going to install one so I could have separate boat, tower, and sub control. I was going to use front output for boat, back output for tower, then obviously sub.

You’ve got me thinking on that now though. All I ever use is Bluetooth


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[Skidave]

Where is your breaker panel? Mine is mounted to my kick panel and has a cutout for access from the face of the kick panel.

As for a speaker for the driver, the best I could engineer is a small speaker pod on the floor by where the kick panel / gunwale/ floor meet. I made a pod using wood rings. Then I cut it to an angle that points towards the driver. Wih carpet wrapped around, it fits nicely in the corner and is out of the way for the most part. I was not cutting the dash or pod by the throttle. I dont have a pic of it at the moment.

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[core-rider]

Okay so while I'm on the upper end of what you are probably wanting to do for stereo I have a few threads detailing my 2003 SANTE stereo mods. For amp rack and placement I would personally stick to the port side as that is where the HU is, factory amps were mounted there, and there is plenty of space as well. With proper planning and some time you can create an amp rack to hold anything you need. This thread details much more than just my amp rack, but post #22 here will show you the rack in place that has been very user-friendly.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...406#post269406

This thread details the "hump" under the driver's dash and it's removal. Honestly this is the perfect location for a single 12" sub IMHO!

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...moval-on-og210

You should have 6 - 6.5" speakers in the boat, but looks like they removed 1 to mount that smaller Clarion amp. Also the power leads for those 2 amps are WAY too small!!! Looks like they used maybe 12-14awg wire... I'm guessing those amps should be 8awg minimum, especially for the length of run they probably used. As for that sub enclosure, it looks to be nothing more than a slimline truck enclosure. Probably just sitting in there. You should have more than enough space to tilt it towards you over the hump and pull it right out. Then chunk that thing in the trash! Easiest placement for a sub is in the port storage, but you loose space that way. You can also build a box to sit in the floor behind the driver seat, some have even built custom enclosures to replace the cooler base on the port side and make it a seat/enclosure. I prefer my location, but it takes some work to accomplish.

There are many good brands out there and if you're looking to build on a budget the first thing you need to do is figure out how much you want to spend, then you can shop from there. Don't forget all the random pieces like power cabling, fusing, and speaker wire if you plan to replace it as those can add up quick. You can also piece together the stereo over time... Start with HU, in-boat speakers, sub, and amps to power them... then move to tower speakers and amp for them as well as zone control later. This way you can spread the cost/install over time. If you prefer paying someone to install for you make sure they have marine experience! I've seen many car stereo shops do work in boats that just won't hold up over time and use wrong materials.

[Iamwildbill]

Core-rider you’re a legend for cutting up your boat as much as you have. I’m too chicken for it. You also have the skill to backup the repair it looks like. I’m a mechanic but haven’t done fiberglass so a bit concerned to try on my boat!

Budget/wants/needs are middle of the road. We never listen to music at 100% as we’ve got a 1yr old who loves the boat so she’s always with us. So I don’t feel I need wetsounds speakers as they don’t outperform IMO until higher volumes.

I think I may steal that panel idea for mounting all amps in one place. Plus pre-fab will save install time forsure.

[mention]core-rider [/mention] , how much distance between carpet gunnels and side of boat? Don’t wanna send a screw into the glass on the tub, but obviously have to attach the board to the gunnel.


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