First Timer Replacing Speakers

[JDC02SANTE]

Anyone got some good tips on what to do and what not to do as I start my "audio upgrade"? I'll show some pics of what I've got right now as soon as I pull them from my phone.

[JDC02SANTE]

Old Clarion head unit.
2 Phoenix Gold Amps
1 Kicker Amp (Sub I'm assuming)
1 Giant ball of wiring

More pics and questions to come...

[srock]

I had an armrest-mounted head unit on a Malibu I owned. I ended up placing it in the glove box with a remote on the dash. It was a bit of work but the placement was so much more functional than under my arm. I now use a fusion head unit on a NEMA backbone on the 2 boats I own. I am really happy with the functionality and the ability to integrate more functionality or changes to the system.

[bturner]

Wow was this a saltwater boat at some time? I've had some pretty old boats with original stereos installed and don't recall seeing the rust/corrasion on the terminals like that. I like srock's recommendation to move the head unit to the glove box. I work on a Malibu for the BIL with all kinds of reoccurring issues due to the location of the stereo in the arm rest. I may take that suggestion to the BIL and see about implementing that strategy myself.

Past that it looks like a rip and replace to me. Depending on the build level you decide to do and how many channels you plan to support I would look at creating an amp rack to mount the new amps and supporting components to. Get rid of the glass fuses and replace them with breakers or newer style fuses at a minimum. I would be looking real close at the power and ground cables. Looking at the corrosion I go out on a limb and say a lot of this installation is not marine rated. There's a good chance that corrosion is wicking up the cables which is not a good thing for a high power system.

There's a lot of ways to do these installations and I'm sure you'll get more ideas along the way. I personally don't do the super high end builds and focus more along the lines of making my installations more stock looking so any advice or comment from me is going to be along those lines.

Probably the first place to start is to define you goals, budget and create a build plan. You may be quite surprised how your goals and budget will be very different when you start pricing gear out these days.

[JDC02SANTE]

No salt water. Maybe it looks different in the pics, but there isn't really any rust/corrosion. There is a couple decades of dust and cobwebs.

Plan is a new head unit, replace all 6 in-boat and tower speakers of which I only need 4 more in-boat speakers (sub may still be OK??). Upgrade the Amp(s) and how they are mounted and cleaner wiring. I've seen some nice pics here on that note.

Going in to see my local Nautique dealer this week to get some quotes on a few items, with this being one purely for shock value. Budget is a couple $K and plan on doing it myself, or a combo of the two if the dealer sharpens their pencil.

Any tips on speaker removal?

[bionaraq]

What are you looking for as goals? decent bass, full sound? loud as **** for rider? loud in cabin? destroy the cove?

all of this affects your setup.

My 2004 has a large cardboard box waiting for her. all new JL Audio mx650's (4) for the cabin speakers. I'm adding JL 770 (2) cans to the tower and a 10" JL subwoofer (infinite baffle) will be cut into the under seat area over the current box of junk in there.

I used Creative audio to buy everything except one M800 amp which i got from a part out on another forum. If you message them once you have a cart full you can usually get 5 to 10 % off of the order. My total was nearly $2200 for my setup (M200/2 for the subwoofer, speakers, speaker mount for the tower).

I've also made the switch to a bluetooth direct to amp source. I"m ditching the full original Clarion setup as well and will be replacing the original dash remote with a depth finder.

It's going to be a lot of work to add in but i feel it will be worth it. Why? My last boat had full JL Audio (was a boat show boat that the dealer went to town on.) I made a few changes over the years. I had three amps (24' yamaha). 1: subwoofer only with remote for sub volume. 2: cabin speakers (bow, cabin, rear seating) with remote, 3: tower/swim deck with remote. This way we could listen to music and turn off the tower when cruising. we could blast it at the sandbar and have the cabin quiet for napping kids, and i could turn the subwoofer down when my dad came with us as he hated the vibrations it gave the seat.

I'm told the Wetsounds systems are amazing but had to keep with what i know.

part of replacing the closed box with an infinite baffle sub cut into the passthrough to my bow is to gain storage under the seat. The amps will be mounted neatly to the side with a cover to prevent accidental bumps. I'm also planning on replacing the HU above this area with a trash receptacle so that people can put their trash in the trash can w/o making anyone move from their seat.

[JDC02SANTE]

Goals: Clean sound is top priority. I still like it loud sometimes, but I don't need to be the loudest boat on the lake. I would like to be able to control the zones properly. XM & Bluetooth needed as well.

I have two sets of JL M3-650's w/LED in "cans" for the tower to replace the Boss cans that were on the tower when I bought the boat.

I have two more of the same M3-650's for in the boat and have located 4 more online. So purchases need to be a new head unit, amp(s) and possibly a new sub. Location for the head unit is still up in the air at this time. Not sure I have too many choices on that.

And I definitely can't deal with the sloppy amp mounting and squirrels nest of wires under the observer seat that I have going on now.

[bionaraq]

Looks good. I'll note that for me, the 7.7's in my last boat's cans were substantially better sounding that the 6.5's.
They were warmer sounding and could throw a LONG way. I did not have 6.5's in cans though, only in the hull. Where they were near infinite baffle so that may be a difference.

Creative Audio is the best place for amps if you are looking new. you have to decide if you want zones and zone control. If not, just buy a m200 for the subwoofer, and the M whatever that fits the number of other speakers you have.

I'd try what you have first, but if you feel it's not as clear, that's the first change i'd make. (though you'd have to change completely).

If you only ever use bluetooth, skip a Headunit completely, JL (and others) make a Bluetooth reciever that has amp outs you can send to your amps.
I've tried twice in my life to use the stock stereo for radio but the antennas are always hidden for looks and therefore get crap signal.

[JDC02SANTE]

Well, here's the last pics before she "goes under the knife". With the help of ASA Electronics (626 Audio) there will be a complete Polk Audio system installed along with a 2 battery setup with switch. Dropping it off today, heading to FL tomorrow for a long golf trip and picking her up on the 21st.

No more radio cutting in and out and no more dying on the lake with a dead battery.

[JDC02SANTE]

Boat is finished! My battery worries are gone (dual battery w/ kill switch) and the stereo sounds awesome! Thanks ASA Electronics (626 Audio) for all the help!

Now we just need good weather to show up here in N. Indiana. C'mon.

Apparently I didn't get a new pic of the two bow speakers.

[Boats Bros]

Looks very good!! Be careful with that grille in the walk thru. They get brittle over time in the sun and someone’s drunk friend always ends up accidentally kicking it and breaking them. I can’t tell you how many I’ve replaced.