will a 1/2 inch screw be ok to mount sub on outside wall under passenger seat?
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RE: Sub Mount Screws
You really don't want to screw into the fiberglass. I would suggest removing a carpet section Gluing a piece of 1/2" plywood to the hull with 3M 5200 and screwing into that.Nautiqueless in San Diego
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That bump is a glassed in thick section specifically for the factory amps - the only way I would even consider ( as well as what I did ) is use the 3M glue with some marine grade wood strips - screw into the wood - I've seen what happens when someone tries to place screws into hull - nice sharp screw tips sticking out of boat2006 SANTE 210 (Pending Sale)
2005 206 TE (Previous)
1994 SNOB (First Nautique/Boat)
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If your mounting to the bump you are fine with 1/2" screws. That bump is a glassed in polypro mounting board. a 1/2 " screw will go right throught the side of the boat if you arent mounting to the board.Nautiqueless in San Diego
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factory amps are staying, as long as there is room on the "bump", I'm puttting the amp there and screwing with 1/2". Boat/house in middle of nowhere, so I need to take everything with me. I just can't see myself pulling up the carpet and glueing a new board if the bump is there and available, thanks
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if you have two factory amps the mounting area from the factory is not large enough to mount another amp - you might get lucky and get two screws from one side of the new amp installed - good luck wiring and making adjustments to the amps2006 SANTE 210 (Pending Sale)
2005 206 TE (Previous)
1994 SNOB (First Nautique/Boat)
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I believe you should plan for adding some type of mounting back plate considering the travel distance you have mentioned2006 SANTE 210 (Pending Sale)
2005 206 TE (Previous)
1994 SNOB (First Nautique/Boat)
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Not sure which boat you have GN but my 05' 206 came with only the factory 480 and I added a 800w amp which was slightly larger (18"Lx10"H) than the 480 above it. The available space on the backing board was +/- about 20"Lx8"H, used (2) pieces of 1.5" x 1/8" x 10"L aluminum angle screwed together to create a "Z" at each end of the amp, screwed both Alum Z's Vertically to the backer where I could and then screwed the amp to the Alum, the top 1-1.5" of the Aluminum beyond the top edge of the backing board was not touching the boat hull as the hull tapered away or outward above the backing board. Worked out fine and in some ways may be better that the amp can also breath from underneath. If you boat's backer is similar to mine you may only have about 10" across x 8" high to work with, less end connections for power and wire, if the new amp will abut the existing 280.
Good luck with your install.
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