I need to get some new trailer tires. In the Travel Trailer community, it's common to go up one load range. Is there any reason that I shouldn't go from a Load Range C to D on a boat trailer?
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So the math on your load... that will give you the real answer!
On my single axle I had load “D” tires and ran into issues. I was basically just at or over the limit 2 “S” tires would carry when doing the math with full tank of gas and guessing weight for gear. I moved to load “E” tires and haven’t had any issues since.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJason
All black 2003 SANTE
-- Southern Fried --
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I have 4 different trailers and I seem to always be buying tires. I tired "D" tires on a primarily unloaded, seldomly used, blocked boat trailer and they lasted the least mount of time. 1 year and they came apart on a long haul becoming out of round then the tread separated. If not used, I now will pull the trailer, even if empty, every 4 months to flex and heat the tire. Go figure. If properly load sized, I believe it's more age than anything else.
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Based on carrying capacity Load Range C should work. I feel that Load Range D would be stressed less due to being stiffer. My only concern was around a rougher ride for the boat.
I had Load Range E on my single axle trailer for the Sport Nautique. At the time, they didn't have Load Range D in stock.Previous:
2011 Super Air Nautique 210
1994 Sport Nautique
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The C tires were maxed out for their weight rating on my rig. I remember a similar issue on my travel trailer and when I got new tires I paid an extra $2 a tire to get the D rated tires. It’s terrible but the trailer makers will put on the minimum they can get away with just to save $10 in mfg cost
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I would run the maximum load range your wheels will handle. You need to check the wheels to see if they are rated for the higher air pressure required for a higher load range. If you can get E I'd get E, otherwise get D. And I would get the best speed rating you can get as well. Replace every 4-5 years regardless of use.
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