towing with full ballast

[Mr DW]

I currently have an A24 which weighs 4500lbs and tows very easily with all 3 of my current tow vehicles (LR4, GL63, Suburban 2500). I am looking at a GS24 (5100lbs) or G23 (5900lbs) for my next boat. One important factor is towing. To test the added weight over the A24, I have thought of towing with the ballast full. I'm assuming it is fine to do so. I can't think of an issue, but I wanted to check with you all before I did something stupid.

thanks

[markj]

With your need to list those vehicles and your ignorance of them, I think you’ve mistaken this for the Mastercraft forum. Best of luck with your X-Whatever.

[markj]

Joking. How far will you be regularly towing?

[Nautiquehunter]

Depending on what LR4 model you have the towing capacity is 3500 -7700 lbs so you are maxed out now. The GL63 with a 5.5L V8 Tubocharged engine has a towing capacity of 7500 lbs . So your only option is the Suburban with a towing capacity of 9400 to 9600 depending on model . Remember you have to add the trailer , fuel and gear to the dry weight so you can easily add another 2-3000 lbs .

[hal2814]

What are your trailer and your trailer tires rated to handle? Usually trailers and tires and selected to tow just barely what a loaded boat weighs. If the trailer can handle the extra weight that’s fine. If not you could easily damage your trailer. Also make sure to dump your ballast water in the lake you got it from. I know I’d hate to be the guy who brought something like zebra muscles to a new lake.

[SkiTower]

loading your current boat and seeing if you can pull it is not the right test. I imagine you would be able to move it. Doing so safely is the issue and that is where rated towing capacity comes in.

[hal2814]

loading your current boat and seeing if you can pull it is not the right test. I imagine you would be able to move it. Doing so safely is the issue and that is where rated towing capacity comes in.

Loading it up to see how it pulls isn't the wrong test. It's just not the only test. My old Cherokee could tow more than my 4-door Wrangler. I still felt a lot more comfortable towing 3,500lbs with my Wrangler than I ever did in the Cherokee which can tow 5,000lbs with WD hitch. After confirming the capacity works out, it's not a bad idea to see how the vehicle will actually perform pulling the load, especially at the ramp where there are stark differences in how vehicles tow regardless of tow capacity.

[mooneywa]

By "full ballast" I'm guessing you mean ballast tanks full, meaning water and not lead is the weight you are leaving in the boat? To my knowledge, very few if any ballast tanks or bags have baffles in them that would slow the transfer of water from one side (or fore/aft) to the other. I wouldn't want over a ton of water that could slosh if I had to make an even mildly aggressive move on the highway. The movement of the water is going to amplify every movement made in the vehicle from acceleration to braking to turning. Sure if they are _completely_ full there would be less of that, but I sure as heck wouldn't risk it.

[Mr DW]

Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. I promise you I am very well versed with the towing capacities and ratings of the vehicles I listed. I will not tow if I am technically overweight and I know I will be close on the LR4 (7716lb) and the GL63 (7500lb) with the GS24. If I go with the G23, I will probably only be able to tow with the 2500 Suburban (9600lb). This wasn't meant to be a post about towing capacities of the vehicles. I've seen those hotly debated threads - I'm handle that on my own. My question was about using the ballast to test the "feel" The LR4 actually feels better with the boat behind it than the Suburban. I'd like to see how it feels with an extra 600lbs.

The comments on properly dumping the water and checking the capacity of the tires and trailer were very helpful. Hadn't thought of that. I also really appreciate the comment that it isn't the wrong test, its just not the only test - great point and I agree with that completely.

The lake we go to weekly is 10-15 minutes from my business where I store the boat. It is flat and low elevation (1200ft)

[Mr DW]

By "full ballast" I'm guessing you mean ballast tanks full, meaning water and not lead is the weight you are leaving in the boat? To my knowledge, very few if any ballast tanks or bags have baffles in them that would slow the transfer of water from one side (or fore/aft) to the other. I wouldn't want over a ton of water that could slosh if I had to make an even mildly aggressive move on the highway. The movement of the water is going to amplify every movement made in the vehicle from acceleration to braking to turning. Sure if they are _completely_ full there would be less of that, but I sure as heck wouldn't risk it.

Very good and useful point. I am talking about water ballast bags. I have 3 PNP bags I'd be utilizing... bow, right rear, and left rear. They each 750lbs and are all in lockers that hold the contents and keep them from sloshing too much.

[mooneywa]

I think with them being bags I'd be even less inclined to try it. My bags I have even full have some wiggle to them. I heard a story this summer about college kid who was allowed to take the new family wakeboat (don't know what kind) to Eufala for the weekend. Forgot to empty the ballast and was on I-40 heading back to OKC and went around a blow tire in the highway. The tail started wagging the dog and the rest was history. No injuries, but a tough convo with dad about it I'm sure.

[gonefishin5555]

I currently have an A24 which weighs 4500lbs and tows very easily with all 3 of my current tow vehicles (LR4, GL63, Suburban 2500). I am looking at a GS24 (5100lbs) or G23 (5900lbs) for my next boat. One important factor is towing. To test the added weight over the A24, I have thought of towing with the ballast full. I'm assuming it is fine to do so. I can't think of an issue, but I wanted to check with you all before I did something stupid.

thanks

I wouldn't bother doing this. It won't change the answer to your question. The LR4 and GL63 can handle the load. Its just a matter of do you really want to go around towing right at their limits. Around town and short trips to the ramp is okay but long trips and elevation or steep launch ramps are all gonna require the suburban.

[gonefishin5555]

I think with them being bags I'd be even less inclined to try it. My bags I have even full have some wiggle to them. I heard a story this summer about college kid who was allowed to take the new family wakeboat (don't know what kind) to Eufala for the weekend. Forgot to empty the ballast and was on I-40 heading back to OKC and went around a blow tire in the highway. The tail started wagging the dog and the rest was history. No injuries, but a tough convo with dad about it I'm sure.

I had a friend buy a new Komfort camping trailer and it had a rear bathroom. He had never towed anything of significance before this. Well he put 12 cases of soda and beer(and God knows what else he loaded in there) in the bathroom for his 2 week trip. His first time using the trailer he got on the freeway and in under 2 miles from his house the trailer fish tailed and flipped on it side and was totaled. That was a short vacation.

[Mr DW]

I checked the tires and trailer load ratings. Tires are rated at 2200lb each (65psi) and the trailer is rated at 7500 lbs. (2 2" ball). So I am set on those capacities. I'll let you all know how it goes.

[shag]

I would not do this. Many trailer manufacturers build their trailers without much room for added weight. Key factors are your current axle rating and tire ratings. Also, water weight sloshes around if a 'tank' (ballast) is not 100% full creating a surge effect that can dramatically affect handling.