Trailer Tires PSI

[2016SPORTNAUTIQUE200]

Here she is

[SilentSeven]

I really don't think it's the air temps that are causing problems. We'll tow in for 150+ miles in eastern WA in the summer when it's 100+ degrees. I'm using chineasium no-name trailer tires but my rig isn't that heavy (206 on a tandem trailer).

I'm with BT. Alignment or something dragging.

I'm pretty OCD on my trailer when towing over 20+ miles one way. This is from being roadside broke more than once in BFE..never fun. So now before I do a distance run I a) inspect the inner seals for signs of leaking grease b) top up the bearing buddies c) check the tire-pressures d) shake the wheel left/right to check for lateral play. When on the road, at any stop I promptly walk to back the trailer and put my hand on each hub to see how warm it is. Warm is ok, hot is not OK.

I've never had a tire fail. I've had bearings fail more than once from various issues. I once had a wheel lock-up when the lining material from a brake shoe separated and jammed in the wheel hub...that was interesting.

In the end, I have just have decided that being OCD about my setup is simpler than being busted....

[bturner]

I'd still check the alignment. It's not that hard to do or find a shop to do it for you. Also check the condition of the brake fluid and make sure those calipers aren't dragging. If the trailer is stored outside it doesn't take long to get contaminated. The one I worked on with the pitted caliper pistons was only 4 years old. When I pulled the master cylinder cap off the brake fluid was brown.

The new Goodyear Endurance tires are what I would go with as well. These are what replaced the Marathons a couple years back so whatever you do don't buy the older Marathons. From what I'm reading on other forums these are the tires to get. The 205/14s are load range D and rated to 87 MPH. They're not cheap. Around here they're going at near list at $118 a tire which is about a $ off list. My trailer came with some off brand tires that took a ton of weight to balance. Not impressed at all but they are working just like tires so.......

When I do change them out I'll do the Endurance tires. The good news is that I'll only 2 of them. Maybe I'll use that extra money saved to swap out the cheap steel wheels that came with my trailer for some of those nice aluminum ones as well.

[bturner]

I really don't think it's the air temps that are causing problems. We'll tow in for 150+ miles in eastern WA in the summer when it's 100+ degrees. I'm using chineasium no-name trailer tires but my rig isn't that heavy (206 on a tandem trailer).

I'm with BT. Alignment or something dragging.

I'm pretty OCD on my trailer when towing over 20+ miles one way. This is from being roadside broke more than once in BFE..never fun. So now before I do a distance run I a) inspect the inner seals for signs of leaking grease b) top up the bearing buddies c) check the tire-pressures d) shake the wheel left/right to check for lateral play. When on the road, at any stop I promptly walk to back the trailer and put my hand on each hub to see how warm it is. Warm is ok, hot is not OK.

I've never had a tire fail. I've had bearings fail more than once from various issues. I once had a wheel lock-up when the lining material from a brake shoe separated and jammed in the wheel hub...that was interesting.

In the end, I have just have decided that being OCD about my setup is simpler than being busted....

Nothing like being stuck on the side of the road to fix your attitude towards trailer OCD. Maybe that's why I like the Motor Trend show Roadkill so much. I've only had one failure due to my fault when the emergency brake cable got pulled and caused one of the drum brakes to smoke. Luckily I was able to figure out what happened and was able to drive home about 15 minutes later. The other two I recall were both on used boat we were picking up. One we changed a tire on, the other we made it limp home on separated belts because we didn't have a spare to put on the trailer.

Now when I or I help someone buy a used boat I ask how old the tires are, when the bearing were last serviced and if it doesn't have a spare we bring one. I also "bring it all" from a tool perspective. Hydraulic jack, impact gun, full set of sockets/wrenches and my electrical repair kit. I will say I did get lucky on the last MC we picked up. 4 year old boat with 60 hours on it. The trailer had the low profile tires that looked good but were old, it did have a spare but the brake fluid was low and brown. We made a 4.5 hour trip home with it but noticed 2 of the hubs were running hot. When got home and started pulling everything apart I had to use an impact to get get the lug nuts off and broke at least 1 lug on every axle and the threads were wiped out on another 4 studs. The spare tire carrier was mounted under the trailer and swung down to get the tire out. That was frozen as well and I had to use a sawzall to cut the lock off to get the tire out. The tires were some off brand, non standard size and 2 of them had separated belts. I'm actually quite shocked we made it home without getting stranded somewhere.

So on this trailer I ended up changing all 4 calipers, flushed the fluid twice during the summer, replaced 8 studs and 4 tires. Only have the after pictures on this one and the trailer is really dirty from sitting out but this is the trailer after the repairs. You can see the under trailer spare carrier. Tons of surface rust on this one. It had aluminum diamond plate step pads that cause each panel they were mounted to the rust. I stripped the fenders and step plates, repainted them then cut traction pad material to replace the diamond plate.

The previous owner told us that the dealer he had store it for him pulled it in a snow storm about 50 miles to their off site storage lot. It was supposed to be inside storage but the PO said when he went to pick it up it was out in a lot all winter with just the factory cover. I'm thinking it got a good dose of salt on that pull to the lot which caused most of the corrosion issues.

[srock]

Are those trailer tires? They have a different sidewall than non-trailer tires.

At 5-6 years the tire is shot due to age not wear. If you go any distance they need to be replaced regardless of how they look.

With dual axles, make sure you are towing level especially with torsion axles.

If your alignment is off, you should be able to spot irregular wear.

[SilentSeven]

Nothing like being stuck on the side of the road to fix your attitude towards trailer OCD.....

Pretty much...in my defense I was much younger and less thoughtful then. I've gotten better. BTW, Roadkill is hilarious.

To help cut UV tire damage (trailer is parked outside), I use RV wheel covers like these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWLYFMT...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[bturner]

Are those trailer tires? They have a different sidewall than non-trailer tires.

I actually don't know but my guess would be these are not trailer tires. This trailer is a 2012 when going low profile was just becoming the fad. If you notice the width they're substantially wider that typical trailer tires as well. The wheels are some junk aftermarket chrome plated wheels (with the chrome pealing off) that take a "special" lug nut. The center cap is also "special", difficult to find and from the wheel manufacture are about $35 a piece. All 4 are broken. The owner is on the fence about replacing them as he lives on the lake and rarely tows. If it were mine they've be at a scrap yard and I'd have a decent set of aluminum wheels on the trailer. When he changed the tires out a couple weeks after these pictures were taken he painted them black with Plasti Dip. From 10' and at 60 mph they look OK.

[sstexan]

Move to Goodyear Endurance and run 65psi and you will be fine. I have had countless blowouts, separations on Carliesle, and Marathons. Since I moved to Endurance, never an issue. Also, I have noticed with the higher load capacity and with the higher psi, I swear it pulls better as well... Good Luck!