Tandem Trailer front V

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  • Jspencer431
    • Jun 2019
    • 9

    • Wisconsin

    • 1994 Ski Nautique

    Tandem Trailer front V

    Hi everyone, can anyone tell me if the V on the front of my trailer is correct? Should the two boards be touching?? I'm having some issues loading and uploading. Thank you!
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  • SilentSeven
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Feb 2014
    • 1821

    • Bellevue WA

    • 2004 Nautique 206

    #2
    Generally looks ok. The v berth is there to help stop the boat going forward in a hard stop situation. It's also there to prevent you from overloading the boat forward hitting the prop on the trailer.

    What are your loading/unloading challenges?

    Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

    2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
    1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
    1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
    Bellevue WA

    Comment

    • Jspencer431
      • Jun 2019
      • 9

      • Wisconsin

      • 1994 Ski Nautique

      #3
      We literally have to put the truck tires in the water to get the boat off. Loading is a pain I feel.like I'm being extremely hard on the boat while power loading. Also, I'm continually replacing the carpet on the V and it's leaving marks on the boat - check out the first picture left side. The V used to be made of wood now it is composite because I kept splitting the wood.

      Comment

      • SilentSeven
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Feb 2014
        • 1821

        • Bellevue WA

        • 2004 Nautique 206

        #4
        Sounds like you have a super shallow (low angle) ramp? Is it like this at all ramps or are you always at the same ramp? Are you sure your trailer is correct for this boat?

        With a tourney ski boat, you should generally be able to float the boat off the trailer.....with some pushing on the nose as it will tend to stick.

        Here's a few things that might help. First, old bunk carpet gets grippy. If you can, replace with new. Or consider spending some $$ and install gatorbak bunk covers. If your trailer sits outside without the boat, expect a bunch of sand and grit will get in the carpet. Spray the bunks out with a strong hose stream to remove the crap. There's a product you can spray the bunks with called 'liquid rollers' - it's a huge friction reducer. Read the directions carefully as I have heard stories of unsecured boats sliding off the trailer on the ramp. Stuff works but you have to keep applying.

        When loading, try to limit the power loading by getting the trailer decently deep. Dip the trailer deeper than necessary and get the bunks wet first then pull to load depth - wet bunks equal less friction. Splash by hand if you have to.

        I went through much of this and just didn't like the sand related scuffs on the hull from dirt in the bunk carpet. Spent the $$ and installed gatorbak covers. It's nice sh*t and it's more or less ended the sand scuffs. Look for a sale....usually each major holiday. If you look in my post history you can see what it looks like.

        edit / attached quick pics of the gatorbak bunks.

        Click image for larger version

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        Last edited by SilentSeven; 06-07-2023, 10:07 AM.
        2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
        1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
        1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
        Bellevue WA

        Comment

        • SilentSeven
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Feb 2014
          • 1821

          • Bellevue WA

          • 2004 Nautique 206

          #5
          One more thought - are you sinking your trailer deep enough? You could also have load issues if the trailer is just not sunk sufficiently.

          For my 206 - similar to your boat - on a tandem axle DHM made trailer, I back the trailer in until I have ~ 2" of water over the top of the front portion of the fender. To get the trailer this deep, I typically have to get the rear wheels of the SUV into the water - how much depends on the ramp. I never put the SUV in deep enough to get water onto the wiring harness plug but sometimes it gets close.
          Last edited by SilentSeven; 06-08-2023, 05:39 PM.
          2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
          1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
          1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
          Bellevue WA

          Comment

          • bturner
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Jun 2019
            • 1559

            • MI

            • 2016 200 Sport Nautique

            #6
            I've had a similar issue loading/unloading mine. I have to get the water level with the tops of the fenders on my single axle trailer to load and sometimes a bit deeper to unload unless I power off. Like Steven my rear tires a good 2" in the water.

            Comment

            • Tom_H
              • Jan 2014
              • 244

              • Minnesota


              #7
              With a direct drive, you have a fairly forward axle location on the trailer, so you'll generally need to have the fender tops at ~water level or under depending on the steepness of the ramp, which often will have truck tires wet. If you have an adjustable hitch, you can set it to the highest position before putting the trailer in to help a little. Regarding the V-bunk, there's a gap between the boards to allow your bow eye to pass through it if needed (depends on trailer/ramp angle if this happens) - you might even consider putting them wider.

              I have a similar style trailer with that V-bunk (but without the crash pads up front). When loading, either back the trailer in far enough to get the bunks good and wet and then pull forward to whatever trailer depth you need (or splash water on the bunks). Wet bunks can make a pretty drastic difference on ease of getting boat on. I personally don't like power loading as it destroys the launch (our lake's launch has needed repairs twice over the last 3 years because of it). I do a mild power assisted winching when loading (wife just puts the boat into gear to take a little load off while I winch - but doesn't scour the bottom).

              Another option could be to adjust that V a little forward, since you have the crash pads up at the bow to keep the boat in place (and prevent it from sliding forward) anyway, it's not doing much other than helping direct and center the bow during loading.

              Comment

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