230 feels terrible while towing

[Cut2448]

I recently purchased my first boat used from a dealer. 2013 SAN 230 on a 2019 boatmate nautique trailer. Im pulling with a ram 2500 cummins and it rides terribly. I have contacted boatmate to see which boat my trailer was actually built for, but haven't heard back. I have a couple issues. Issue #1 I only have about 150lbs of tongue weight per what the load cell on my hitch says. Issue#2 every time I load the boat, I crank to the roller in the water and then when pulled out, it settles a couple inches from the roller. Before I do any major surgery to this trailer to try to fix these issues, Is there any adjustment I can do to get the boat deeper on the trailer?

[ST3]

These boats are heavy and there is a technique that my dealer showed me and it’s served me well for the past 6 years. Sink the trailer until just about an inch of the bunk(s) are above water. That might be your front or rear bunks. Bring the boat up without too much power then hook on your strap and power load the rest of the way while
someone else is cranking it on. It needs to go all the way until the bow is (over) the rubber roller a bit.

Obviously every boat and trailer and ramp is a little different but you will need to power load. Also you can get an adjustable hitch and lower it to get more tongue weight. Hope that helps.

[Cut2448]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have been floating on and off due to being new to inboards and somewhat timid about everything underneath. Last weekend, I did build up the nerve to power it on for about the last 10” to the roller. The bow was seated in the roller and had the same result of it backing away about 2” when I pulled it out of the water.

[bturner]

My thoughts would be.....

• I honestly don't know how I would "float on" even my little 200 Sport Nautique and get it all the way on the trailer. You're going to have to power load that boat IMO.
• Dunking the bunks as ST3 suggests is a proven method of helping lubricate the bunks using water as the lubricant. Another more effective method would be to spray a product like Liquid Rollers (https://www.westmarine.com/marykate-...r-1244805.html) but be aware, what lubricates for going up, lubricates for coming off. In other words you better have all your straps attached before moving off the ramp or you'll leave your boat on the ramp. Another concept would be to go with something like Gatorbak bunk covers (https://gatorbak.com/). These are synthetic bunk covers that replace the carpet and greatly help with loading especially with heavy boats.
• Typically if your boat is backing off the trailer when you pull out, I've found its because the trailer was in too deep. This allows slack in the winch strap as the bow is sitting high and allows the boat to settle back as the trailer moves forward. I've had this happen on some steep launch ramps. What I do is tighten up the winch strap as reasonably tight as I can get it then, when in a safe area, get the truck moving at about 5 MPH and hit the brakes firmly. If you're on level ground the boat should move the rest of the way up. Tighten the strap and get on with life.
• On tongue weight... You're way light if that reading is correct. You should be at 5 - 7% of your rigs total weight. If your rig weighs 6000lbs you should be at about 360lbs. 150lbs is going to be trouble. I would buy a bathroom scale that goes to at least 400lbs and verify with that. If you're off by that much either the boat isn't far enough forward, the axles are too far forward or you're gear that you've added to the boat is loaded incorrectly. The next questions on these boats that get a lot of surf time would be.... Has anyone added lead weight to the boat? If you don't know, start looking. Lots of guys will add hundreds of pounds of lead weight for a better wake. The problem is that it's also there all the time. In this case it could be really affecting the balance of the boat on the trailer depending on where it was placed.

IMO what you're experiencing is an adjustment period getting used to the boat. Every boat is going to load differently and have it's own procedure to get it to load properly. It just takes time to find that right depth for the trailer, the right power to load and the proper technique to get everything running smoothly. Even when you get all this figured out you'll probably go to a new ramp which will present its own challenges. Job one in my book would be to figure out that tongue weight.

[Cut2448]

bturner Thanks for the input. I have looked in all the usual places for ballast, but I have not pulled the covers of the hard tanks to look deep in the hull near the transom. Will do this evening. I will sack up this weekend and do as y'all have suggested and dunk trailer shallower and power on.

[ST3]

GO FOR IT!

One note of clarity for you...having the bow up against the roller has never worked for me...I end up with some slack once its out of the water. You need to be ON/Over the roller just a bit. Hope that helps...report back...

[Waveslayer]

I might also suggest converting your trailer with a Ramp N Clamp, like the bold Boat Buddies that MC used to use.

After using one for 30+ years I'd never go back and pulling out of the water is easy, especially for my wife. You hear an Audible , "click" then she just pulls out! No one had to get out or ratch the boat up the trailer. Quick and easy

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[NautiqueJeff]

Post a picture of your boat on your trailer. Let's see if it is the right trailer first of all. The VIN plate may also have the model that the trailer was built for.

[Cut2448]

Here are some current pictures that I already have, can take more for clarity. I did speak with boatmate this morning and it is for an up to 2019 230

[Lockem25]

Cut2448 I know my boat rides way different(like crap) on the trailer with being as far back as you are there to the bumper. I also make sure to move some of my lead that we use.

Tips on loading, (I went over this with my wife and she does pretty good) if you have room get a decent amount of straight before you get to the trailer. Find a focal point that as long as the truck and trailer are straight use that same reference every time. Just go slow. Boats are too expensive to be in a hurry to load and get out of the way for the next crew putting in or getting out. Youll figure it out. Small movements with wheel and dont ride up to trailer in gear bump it in gear as needed.

[srock]

Just like yours, mine is also "loose" if I am not tight to the bow roller. A couple of inches makes all the difference. Different loading techniques are needed depending on the ramp. Mine, I need to get it tight then back in a little more and crank some more. The other option is to get hard on the brakes to get it to slide forward. Get it tight and report back.

[XBIGPUN66]

We put the trailer "deep" and then float it on the trailer to get it tight to the bow roller. As the truck pulls it out we make sure it is straight on the trailer. The we hit the brakes to snug it up forward. Then we retighten to the bow roller.

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[SilentSeven]

My direct drive always rides better when the boat is tight to the trailer. For this to happen, the bow strap needs to have significant tension and the stern tie downs are tight.

While I have no evidence to cite, I suspect the trailer alone lacks sufficient rigidity to track well with a loosely sitting boat. By cinching the boat tight you reduce flexing which in turn promotes predictable ride and handling.

When towing I can typically tell if one of the cinch straps has come loose....and I'll stop and retighten.

[srock]

One other thing...the trailer should be level when towing especially if it is a torsion axle because one axle will end up bearing more of the load.

[SilentSeven]

srock raises a great point!

I had to plan and try a bunch of hitch receivers to correctly level the ride on my dual axle trailer. I'm not a torsion setup but this was still very helpful. On my setup, when the nose is too high or too low, the leaf spring shackles can hit the frame limiting the travel....it's like hitting the bump stops on the car and creates some really odd jounce.

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