Weight Distributing Hitches for boatmate trailers?

[gmoniey]

I'm planning on towing by 2016 G23 (w/ tandem axle boatmate trailer) ~300 miles and it's unclear as to how/if I would use a Weight Distribution Hitch. My truck ('23 Tundra) suggests it in the manual, but I don't understand how I would affix it to the trailer given the long stem/tongue (not sure what the proper terminology is, but basically calling out how the trailer doesn't fork immediately)

This post was super helpful in understanding the need for them, but then this post suggests otherwise.

I need a new hitch anyways (current one I have is a class 3 I believe), so trying to figure out the best route forward.

[SilentSeven]

Here's my understanding of a WDH

1. Only use with e-brakes, not hydraulic surge brakes. A WDH interferes with surge brakes.
2. You still need to stay within the total tow weight of the vehicle. If the boat and trailer are 8k and the vehicle is rated for 7k, a WDH is not your fix.
3. WHD primarily redistributes weight off the tongue and to the trailer/vehicle axles via a torsion system. This reduces squat if your spring setup is not optimum.

Fire away and correct me.

[gmoniey]

Thanks for chiming in. On #1, I'm assuming these boatmate trailers are full e-brakes (not electronic over hydraulic)?

As is stands, the boat falls within all of the ratings, including payload (just barely). The challenge is the manual calls for WDH for over 5k tow, so I'm not trying to use it to increase the towing ability, but rather follow the manual guidelines. The truck also has adaptive suspension, but honestly, not sure how much of a difference that makes.

But as it stands, I don't think there is a way to actually attach a WDH to a boatmate trailer, so this may be moot.

[bird_dog0347]

*Most* boatmate trailers are surge brakes and *some* are electric over hydraulic systems but those are more rare. It is unlikely you will be able to tow that boat with that truck and be within the confines of what is stated in the manual. If you are towing it on a relatively flat location for a couple of miles you'll be ok but over the legal limit and subject to liability in the event of any accident, I don't think I'd do that for a trip more than a mile or so.

[SilentSeven]

You can easily inspect for e-brakes - you won't have a surge coupler.

If I was in your shoes, I'd take the truck/trailer setup to a local tow specialty shop and see what they think on application of WDH or other possible solutions.

I think you're correct in that adding a WDH to a boat trailer mayt be as simple as a standard RV trailer as the tongue frame triangle varies a lot more. I can't recall too many times that I've seen one with a boat trailer.

[Scooter G]

You'll be in the 8500 lbs plus without fuel, boat and trailer, in Cali, with their lovely highway towing rules. What is your Tundra, an SR or..?

https://www.355toyota.com/toyota-tundra-towing-capacity#:~:text=To%20achieve%20the%20maximum%20to wing,%2DTurbo%20V%2D6%20engine.

https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/general-nautique-discussion/621664-actual-weight-of-2021-g23

https://nautique.com/models/super-air-nautique-g23/specs

[Scooter G]

Off Topic - I just found a Linc Screen Manual for your '16, it might come in handy for your Linc learning curve:

https://nautique.blob.core.windows.n...21-G23-G25.pdf

[jpwhit]

I've towed a ton of different RVs and Boats of all sizes. But I'll also be clear the following is my opinion on the topic.

WDH are mostly about dealing with high tough weight. They do provide some dampening of sway, but that's typically more of a problem with RVs than with boats because boats tend to have a greater distance between the hitch and the trailer wheels than an RV. And that's because boats tend to be rear heavy and RVs tend to be front heavy.

The very latest Tundra's have a lot higher tower capacity than the even models from just a couple of years ago. So, unless you have the very lowest trim level, your towing capacity should be somewhere between 11,500 and 12,000 lbs.

I also advise doing a little test towing somewhere and sometime when there's not a ton of traffic to evaluate the stability of the setup. Do the test with the amount of weight you'll expect to have in the bed of the truck. If the truck squats down noticeable with the tongue weight of the boat and whatever load you have in the bed, then you may need to do something like installing adjustable air shocks in the rear. Do some braking test. Start out easy and then do faster and faster stops. Do some lane changes starting out easy and then quicker and quicker. Neither of these needs to be crazy, just enough to get a feel for the stability.

If everything feels good on a test tow, then wouldn't hesitate to pull that size boat with that truck without a WDH.

[gmoniey]

Thanks for all the comments...really appreciate it as I navigate this.

To answer some of the questions, I have the Platinum model which, based on my math, I fall within the limits (payload and total capacity)...but the manual does state to use a WDH for anything over 5k lbs. The on the flipside, boatmate advises against WDH, so trying to figure out the best path forward.

Based on these convos, it sounds like going with a WDH may not be the best option (although it seems like I could use one of these adapters to allow for a WDH).

I need to buy a new class IV hitch rated for this weight, so trying to figure it out. Either I go down the WDH route, or maybe buy one with an integrated scale (but unsure how accurate those are)...or I could buy the WDH and just not use the arms.

[MN Ryan]

I'd follow jpwhit's advice and see how it tows. Does the adaptive suspension mean it is auto-leveling? My Sequoia (granted it's a '14) has a self-leveling suspension, and it is awesome for eliminating squat.

[Scooter G]

I wouldn't run a tow rig without some sort of leveling system i.e. air bags, definite game changer. Also, if your towing at night your headlights will stay on the road and out of the eyes of oncoming traffic. Your Platinum will do a fine job pulling, forget the boat is behind you - except when turning corners or running over curbs, lol. If you are pulling other trailer types go with the naked WDH, otherwise keep it simple and grab an adjustable level hitch (my opinion).

[NautiqueTim]

And take a grease gun if you're going 300 miles

[NautiqueJeff]

Off Topic - I just found a Linc Screen Manual for your '16, it might come in handy for your Linc learning curve:

https://nautique.blob.core.windows.n...21-G23-G25.pdf

All of those LINC manuals are also on this site in the manuals section:
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...uals-brochures

[gmoniey]

For posterity...I called Boatmate to get their opinion and they gave me the standard legal "we advise against it response", but I contacted the manufacture of the a WDH and I got an emphatic NO. He was very clear that the WDH would cause the surge breaks to work incorrectly...that was enough for me to decide against it.

[SilentSeven]

Surge brakes....right...no go for a WDH.